A 



TOUR 

THROUGH PART 

OF 

THE ATLANTIC; 

OR, 

RECOLLECTIONS 

FROM 

MADEIRA, THE AZORES (OR WESTERN ISLES), 
AND NEWFOUNDLAND, 

(Including the Period of Discovery, Produce, Manners, and 
Customs, of each Place, 
With Memorandums from the Convents,) 

VISITED IN THE SUMMER OF 180C), IN 
H. M. S. VESTAL, 

By ROBERT STEELE, 

LIEUTENANT OF THE ROYAL MARINES* 



With an accurate Chart of the Ship's Track: 



■ 



LONDON; 

PRINTED FOR J. J, STOCKDALB, 41, ?AX,X.-MAXIo 

18IQ. 



Printed by S. Goskeli., Little Queen Stteet, Londoa, 



TO 

COMMODORE 
SIR JOSEPH SIDNEY YORKE, M. P, 

&c. &c. &c. 



Dear Sir, 

In the purest spirit of gra- 
titude, I dedicate my Recollections to 
you. Next to a beloved father, you have 
been my Friend and my Benefactor j — youi^ 
precepts and example warmed my heart, 
and enlarged my understanding, when, in 
early years, I was called from his instruc- 
tion. These are the private virtues of your 
heart, Sir Sidney, and your public cha- 
racter can receive no additional lustre from 
eulogy x for your unwearied professional 
services, and unshaken loyalty in the Senate, 
are acknowledged by a grateful nation. 



iv 



DEDICATION* 



To be again under your command, and to 
receive your approbation, will be the hap- 
piest moment, and the brightest reward 3 
which can, in this life, be conferred on, 

Dear Sir, 
Your most obedient, most faithful, 
And most humble Servant, 



ROBERT STEELE 

% M. S. VESTAL, 

Jan. 2,i } i8ip« 



PREFACE. 



A person who ventures, uncalled, into 
the presence of a polished and enlightened 
people, is bound to make known his preten- 
sions to their favour and indulgence, and 
owes them an apology, at least, for the in- 
trusion. —Such was my answer to the invi- 
tation of some kind friends who wished me 
to publish the observations I had made, 
with the result of my inquiries, during the 
late summer's cruize in the Vestal. They 
assured me there was nothing written on the 
Azores ; that these beautiful islands were 
comparatively unknown, and that my me- 
morandums could not fail to be well re- 
ceived. My youthful heart listened with 
delight to these suggestions, and the charm 
of being read, nay, perhaps, admired, may 
have too soon obtained a conquest over my 
bettcr.judgment. 



vi 



PREFACE. 



By the title-page it will be found that it 
is not my profession to be learned ; and when 
I add, that although I have not yet attained 
my twenty-second year, I have been nearly 
seven years in the actual service of my royal 
Master and beloved Country, and that the 
following pages were written while upon 
duty, many of them, in the language of my 
ancestor, * c during the silent watch of the 
night, when the mind was perfectly disen- 
gaged, and at leisure to run over the busy 
dream of day/' I feel that I shall not be 
judged by the fiery and terrible ordeal of 
rigid criticism. I am conscious of my ab- 
solute inability to give the sublime scenes 
I have witnessed, the beautiful and strik- 
ing graces of an elegant description ; and 
the errors of juvenile composition will be 
too often manifest; but my publisher 
would not accede to my desire that my notes 
should receive the polish of some profes- 
sional literary character, and I have, there^ 



PREFACE. 



vii 



fore, endeavoured to compensate, in some 
measure, by fidelity, and a strict adherence 
to facts ; and can venture to affirm, that the 
different relations are in rigid conformity to 
such resolution. The very peculiar nature 
of our voyage places it within my range to 
give a slight sketch of our valuable settle- 
ment at Newfoundland, where, although 
the prospect is suddenly changed from scenes 
that the most romantic fancy would love 
to dwell upon, for the dull realities of spe- 
culative intercourse, the interest is not di- 
minished, and the patriotic heart enjoys the 
contemplation of a possession that has made 
a rapid progress, and forms a nursery for 
those gallant tars, who defend, with un- 
varied and brilliant success, the mother- 
country. I shall then take my first depar- 
ture from England, and only wish that the 
reader had a more intelligent companion. I 
assure him, that, if he be not highly gratified, 
it will not be from a want of interest in the 



PREFACE. 



subject, but from the melancholy execution of 
the picture, and the lamented inexperience 
of the artist. 

I propose in my narrative to measure back 
our track from Newfoundland to the 
Azores, thence again to Newfound- 
land, and to England via Lisbon ; by 
which method the indulgent reader will, at 
least, derive the fruit of my labour, poor as 
it may be, without partaking of my anxiety 
for the fate of this my first essay. 

Should my fellow-subjects require a 
peace-offering from my vanity, which thus 
induces me to appear before them, they will 
be merciful when I remind them of my rea- 
diness, in my professional character, to be 
a burnt-sacrifice in the service of a Country 
■which 1 love, and of a Monarch whom I 
adore. 



A TOUR 



Nothing could be more gratifying, to a 
sanguine mind, than a voyage of this nature^ 
performed under the most agreeable and in- 
teresting circumstances > viz. the exercise of 
our profession^ the increase of knowledge* 
and, above all, the service of our country* 
On the 23d of May we passed through the 
Needles from Spithead, and in twenty-four 
hours took our departure from the happy 
Isles, ever zealous in the sacred cause of 
Liberty, During a cruize in the Bay of 

B 



IO A TOUR THROUGH 

Biscay we spoke the Parthian sloop of 
war, the harbinger of glad tidings to our 
Sovereign and our country. — Wellesley had 
triumphed, and an oppressed nation began 
again to respire under the protection of his 
conquering sword. It was the birth-day of 
the King too, which increased the fervour of 
our hearts. The weather now became tem- 
pestuous, and for a few hours it blew an 
alarming hurricane, but gradually subsided j 
when each succeeding day brought new 
hopes of success. From the first dawn of 
morning, till night veiled all in darkness, 
every sail was eagerly descried, chased, and 
examined, till the ioth June, when it was 
necessary we should proceed on the voyage, 
and we steered the usual course for Madeira. 
The next day we fell in with His Majesty's 
ship Amazon ; and on the 1 3th, in lat. 40* 
spoke the Emerald, called by the jack-tars 
one of the jewels. We carried a gentle but 
leading breeze till early 00 the morning of 



THE ATLANTIC, if 

the 1 6th, when we made the island of 
Porto Santo, the smallest of the Madeiras, 
about eighteen miles in circumference, very 
sterile, and abounding only in rabbits. At 
a distance we saw the Desertas Islands, 
called by the sailors, u Deserters;'* and at 
four, P. M. anchored in the roadstead of 
Funchall, the capital of Madeira, The 
apex of this beautiful island is veiled in the 
clouds, a circumstanee which adds a gran- 
deur to the enchanting valley in which the 
city is situated. The houses are white, and 
agreeably diversify the picturesque graces of 
surrounding nature. The climate is de- 
lightful : being divided between spring and 
summer, vegetation is never checked, and 
the inhabitants breathe in the harvests of 
plenty. The modern discovery of this 
island by an Englishman, was attended by a 
circumstance so remarkable and affecting, 
that I cannot forbear inserting it. The par* 
ticulars are on record in the Rev, Stanier 
b a 



10". A TOUR THROUGH 

Clarke's " Naufragia," or Historical Me- 
moirs of Shipwrecks : but the narrative was 
originally written by Alcaforados, as fol- 
lows : 

44 It was in the glorious reign of Edward 
the Third of England, that Robert a Ma- 
cham, a gentleman of the second degree of 
nobility, whose genius was only equalled by 
his gallantry and courage, beheld and loved 
the beautiful Anna EX'Arfet ; their attach- 
ment was mutual, but the pleasing hope 
gratified and betrayed their passion ; the 
pride of the illustrious house of Arfet render- 
ed them insensible to the happiness of their 
daughter ; they preferred the indulgence of 
ambition to the voice of duty and love. 
The feudal tyranny of the age was friendly 
to their cruel design, and a warrant from the 
King seemed to justify the vanity of a pa- 
rent. The consciousness of an ingenuous 
mind supported Macham in confinement; 



THE ATLANTIC. 13 

its energy, thus compressed, sought only 
for redress j nor did ft yield to despondency, 
when, on being delivered from prison, he 
found the innocent cause of his persecution 
had been forced to marry a nobleman who 
had carried her to his castle near Bristol, 
The friends of Macham made his misfor- 
tune their own, and one of them had the 
address to be introduced, under the charac- 
ter of a groom, to the service of the af- 
flicted Anna. The prospect of the ocean, 
which, during their rides, extended before 
them, suggested or matured the plan of es- 
cape, and the probability of a secure asylum 
in, was opposed to the dangers of a passage 
to the coast of, France. Under pretence of 
receiving benefit from the sea air, the victim 
of parental ambition was enabled, without 
delay, to elude suspicion, whilst Macham-, 
in the completion of his anxious design, 
was insensible to the particular season of the 
year, or the portentous appearance of die 

* 3 



14 A TOUR THROUGH 

weather, which in calmer moments he would 
have duly observed. The gradual rising of 
a gale of wind, rendered the astonished fu- 
gitives sensible of their rashness as the 
tempest approached ; the thick darkness of 
night completed the horrors of the scene. 
In their confusion the intended port was 
missed, or could not be reached ; their ves* 
sel drove at the mercy of the winds, and in 
the morning they found themselves in the 
midst of an unknown ocean, without the 
skill that could determine their situation, or 
the experience that could direct their course. 
The dawn of twelve mornings returned 
without the sight of land; when, at length, 
after a night of increased anxiety, as they 
watched the earliest streaks of day, an ob* 
ject loomed in the horizon. Continued dis- 
appointment produced a querulous despond- 
ency j whilst they alternately believed and 
doubted, the thick grey haze was dispersed 
by the rising sun, and a general burst $f 



THE ATLANTIC. I£ 

joy welcomed the certainty of land. A 
luxuriancy of trees, to whose appearance 
they were utter strangers, was soon visible, 
and the beautiful plumage of unknown 
birds, which came in flocks from the island, 
o-ave at first the semblance of a dream to 

o 

their astonishing deliverance. The boat 
being hoisted out to examine the coast, re. 
turned with a favourable account. Macham 
and his friends accompanied their trembling 
charge, leaving the rest to secure the vessel. 
The wildness of the adjacent country pos- 
sessed additional beauties to men escaped 
from destruction ; and the rich scenery of 
Madeira was again beheld, after a lapse of 
many centuries, by the eyes of Europeans, 
It was not only visited by the Romans, but 5 
probably, also by the Normans, those skil- 
ful navigators, of whose discoveries we 
know so little, who preceded the Portuguese^ 
and followed the Arabians, in nautical skill. 
An opening in the extensive woods 9 that 
x 4 



l6 A TOUR THROUGH 

was encircled with laurels and flowery 
shrubs, presented a delightful retreat ; a 
venerable tree, the growth of ages, offered, 
on an adjoining eminence, its welcome 
shade ; and the first moments of liberty 
were employed in forming a romantic resi^ 
dence with the abundant materials supplied 
by nature. Curiosity to explore their new 
discovery was increased by the novelty of 
every object they beheld, Their varied oc- 
cupation continued for three days, until the 
survey was interrupted by an alarming hur- 
ricane, that came on during the night, and 
rendered them extremely anxious for their 
companions who were left on board. The 
ensuing morning destroyed every prospect of 
happiness ; they in vain sought the vessel* 
which had driven from her moorings, and 
was wrecked on the coast of Morocco, 
where, as it afterwards appeared, all on 
board were immediately seized for slaves, 
and sent to prison . The afflicted Macham 



THE ATLANTIC. 17 

found this last trial too severe for his dis- 
consolate companion ; her tender mind, 
overcome by the scenes she had endured, 
deeded the conscious sense of a strict dis- 
charge of duty to renew its strength. From 
the moment it was reported the vessel could 
not be found, she became dumb with grief, 
expired after a few days of silent despair, 
and was soon followed by her inconsolable 
lover. The companions of Macham for- 
getting their own situation, were entirely oc- 
cupied in watching their emaciated fnend; 
but all attempts to administer consolation 
were fruitless. On the fifth day they re- 
ceived his parting breath and earnest injunc- 
tion — that they would place his body, in the 
same grave, under the venerable tree, 
which, amidst an agony of tears, they had 
made for the unfortunate victim of his te- 
merity, and where the altar that had been 
raised to celebrate their deliverance, would 
riow mark their untimely tomb. This 



l8 A TOUR THROUGH 

painful duty being performed, they fixed a 
large wooden cross over their grave, with 
the inscription Macham had composed, to 
record their melancholy adventures, and to 
request, that if any Christians should here- 
after visit the spot, they would, in the same 
place, build a church, and dedicate it to 
Christ. Having thus obeyed the dictates of 
friendship, they fitted out the boat, which, 
from their first landing, had been kept on 
shore* Their intention was to return, if 
possible, to England ; but, either owing to 
want of skill, to the currents, or to unfa- 
vourable weather, they were driven on the 
same coast with their shipmates, and joined 
them in the Moorish prison/ 5 

Sir George Staunton says this story forms 
the subject of a picture in the hall of the 
government-house at Madeira ; I was not 
aware of this circumstance, or I should have 
ascertained the fact, and hope for a future 



THE ATLANTIC. 19 

opportunity of doing so. The exact year 
of the discovery cannot be determined : the 
reign of Edward the Third, extending from 
1327 to 1377 — Galverno, on the authority 
©f the Chronicles of Castile, says it was 
about 1344. — Herbert places it in 1328, but 
the Rev. S. Clarke thinks both these dates 
give a longer imprisonment to Morales than 
is consistent with history ; — however, certain 
it is, that in 143 1, during the reign of John 
the First of Portugal, illustrious for his ta- 
lents, his courage, and his prudence, it was 
conquered by the Portuguese, wtio called it 
Madeira, from its being covered with wood, 
which they burnt down, and the island was 
fertilized by the ashes. They planted it 
with vines, which produce incredible quan- 
tities of wine. The white grape is the 
staple commodity, from which, it is com* 
puted, 26,00a pipes are annually made, and 
of which a moiety is exported to different 
quarters of the globe, and the remainder 

4 



20 A TOUR THROUGH 

used by the inhabitants. The usual price 
of this sort, called by the English mer- 
chants, M Dry Madeira," is 48/. per pipe, 
but no offers will induce them to sell old 
wine; at their tables it is drank in the 
highest perfection, but three or four years is 
the average age for exportation, and to ex- 
ceed that would be, by them, considered as 
a breach of faith and of the interests of the 
commonwealth. The other sorts are called 
Tinto and Bastardo, and lastly the celebrated 
Malmsey wine. The grape from which 
this last is made, being of very rare growth, 
not more than five hundred pipes are made at 
a vintage, each pipe selling for 72/. The 
peculiar property of these exquisite wines is, 
that they keep extremely well in hot coun- 
tries, and actually improve from change of 
climate. The merchants are highly respect- 
able, and must always be esteemed for their 
-strict integrity and polite attention to 
strangers. Their houses are spacious, and 



THE ATLANTIC. 21 

many of them elegant, and their villas in 
the country exceedingly beautiful. I vi- 
sited, and was quite charmed with that of 
Mr. Page; it is situated about three miles 
on the acclivity, which is steep and gradual 
from the city, and commands the enchanting 
valley, the ships at the anchorage, and the 
Desertas Islands, together with a vast dis- 
tance of the sea, whereon the eye rests 
wearied by the expanse of water. Nothing 
can rival the splendid luxuriance of the 
avenue leading to the chateau : the most 
fragrant and beauteous flowers delight the 
eye and perfume the refreshing breeze. In 
the cool orange grove you contemplate the 
grounds which are skilfully disposed, and 
in the language of the poet— 

" The myrtles here in fond caresses twine ; 
There rich with nectar melts the pregnant vine/ ' 

In fact, this lovely place brought to mv 
memory the described Eden of our first pa- 



22 A TOUR THROUGH 

tents, nor did I want the endearing elegance 
of female friendship to heighten the compa- 
rison. 

But we will return to the general claims 
of the island to our attention. It is si- 
tuated in lat. 32 0 N. and long. 17 0 5' W. 
and of a paralieiogramic form ; its length, 
from a geometrical survey, from W. N. W. 
to E.S.'E. about thirty-seven miles, and 
breadth eleven miles. It contains thirty- 
seven parishes, and its inhabitants are com- 
puted to be eighty thousand. 

It is pleasant to those who visit or reside 
here, to be assured there is not a venomous 
animal to be seen ; neither have they ever 
been known in the Azores, and it is sup- 
posed, if brought to them, would soon die; 
but there are innumerable lizards, which are 
perfectly harmless and inoffensive. 



THE ATLANTIC. %% 

The city has been very much improved of 
late from the exertions and good regulations 
of the municipal authority ; and the streams 
of water which run through all the streets, 
instead of being a receptacle for filth, are now 
taken advantage of to promote their clean- 
liness, and are a fountain of comfort to fif- 
teen thousand inhabitants. 

They have one principal mall, where the 
more genteel people usually take the air ; and 
although it is circumscribed, from being in 
the heart of the town, it is kept in neat order, 
and centinels are placed to exclude the 
rabble, and preserve the border, which is 
nicely planted. The military parade is ge- 
nerally attended by the first ranks, the band 
having many attractions, and disgracing the 
Portuguese troops, which are wretchedly 
bad, in all their appointments. 



H A TOUR THROUGH 

The heat is by no means oppressive, 
Berge's thermometer was usually at 69 0 , and 
seldom rose higher than 74 and 75, and 
when the snow is on the mountains, stands 
at about 64. 

It appeared to Dr. Gillan, who was phy- 
sician to the Earl of Macartney's embassy to 
China, and made a philosophical survey of 
this island, when the embassy touched at it 
on its way out, that " there had been se- 
veral craters in the island, and that eruptions 
had taken place at various and distant in- 
tervals. This was particularly manifest at a 
place near the Brazen Head, where might 
easily be counted twelve different eruptions 
of lava frorn neighbouring craters," " The 
chain of the highest mountains of Madeira 
has hardly |any volcanic appearance. The 
clouds envelope frequently their tops, and 
from them descend all the streams and rivu- 
lets of the island 8 Their antiquity is 



THE ATLANTIC. 25 

marked by the deep chasms, or gulfs, they 
have formed in their descent between the 
ridges of the rocks, during the long lapse of 
time they have continued to flow. In the 
beds of these rivulets are found pebbles of 
various sizes, and large round masses of 
silex, such as are usually met with in the beds 
of many similar torrents in the Alps. The 
soil also of the fields and pasturage-grounds 
appears the same as those of the continent, 
where no volcanic fire has ever been sus- 
pected ; but it is probable that the bay or 
beach of Funchall is a segment of a large 
crater, the exterior part of which has sunk 
into the sea; for, on the beach, the shining 
or blue stones are all of compact lava; and 
tempestuous weather always throws large 
masses of the same blue lava stone, and 
also a quantity of cellular lava, upon the 
shore; moreover, the Loo Rock and landing- 
place opposite to it to the westward of Fun- 
chall Bay, as well as that upon which Fort 

c 



26 A TOUR THROUGH 

St. Jago is constructed, are evidently per- 
pendicular fragments of the edges of the 
crater, which have hitherto resisted the ac- 
tion of the sea, by having been better sup- 
ported, or having more closely adhered to- 
gether, though much worn by the violence 
of the surgeo They bear not the least resem- 
blance to the neighbouring rocks a little 
within shore. The island abounds in de- 
licious fruits and vegetables ; fish of many 
kinds are taken on the coast, but herrings 
and oysters are unknown to them, and great 
quantities of salted cod are imported from 
America. 

On landing, you are forcibly struck with 
the peculiar costume, as well as the courtesy, 
of the lower orders of the people, who are, 
many of them, employed carrying • on the 
brisk trade of the place. Cattle of all kinds 
are used to transport their merchandise, 



THE ATLANTIC. 2'/ 

which they do on sleds, with admirable 
care and celerity. 

People of figure generally take the air in a 
cotton hammock, called a serpentine, car- 
ried on their slaves' shoulders, with the as- 
sistance of a bamboo twelve or fourteen 
feet long. These hammocks are of various 
colours, adorned to the taste and fortune of 
the owner, who is supported by cushions, 
and, over his head, falls a curtain, with 
which he conceals himself at his pleasure j 
but, should he be so disposed, he salutes, en 
passant, or enters into long conversations 
with his acquaintance. Meanwhile the 
slaves rest the serpentine on iron forked 
staffs, which they each carry in their hand, 
for that purpose. The principal British 
merchants, also, have these luxurious ham- 
mocks, in which the ladies appear particu- 
larly fond of swinging. Two slaves will 
go several miles in a day, with a heavy per- 
e % 



28 A TOUR THROUGH 

son, in one of these machines, with appa- 
rent ease and astonishing celerity, nor do they 
require an extraordinary refreshment. 

The number of persons one meets in the 
ecclesiastical habit reminds us of our uni- 
versities, and the time and fortune of the 
people seem devoted to their romantic reli- 
gion. The costly decorations of their 
churches, and the pomp and pageantry of 
their solemn ceremonies, are extravagant to a 
great degree ; yet, on entering their sacred 
temples, we acknowledge no sentiment of 
devotion, and the gaudy trappings by 
which we are surrounded, remove every 
impression of piety and prayer. 

Here are but few convents, and those 
principally composed of aged persons. A 
curious ceremony was recently performed by 
the sisters of one monastery joining those of 
another ; and their gloomy walls, hallowed to 



THE ATLANTIC. $9 

peace and penitence, were then converted to 
barracks for the officers of the British 
troops. The influence of power, or the 
suggestions of fancy, can scarcely be ima- 
gined to effect a more ridiculous metamor- 
phosis than this, which was most probably 
produced by chance or emergency. 

The Portuguese character seems to exist 
in an inverted order, and forms a striking 
contrast to the Spanish. A Castilian noble- 
man is a renowned instance of noble honour 
and unsullied virtue. The Portuguese su- 
perior, insensible to both, falls from every 
fine sentiment that can dignify or adorn a 
character, while their plebeians preserve a 
decorum, in their general demeanour, and 
amongst themselves, that is hardly credible, 
and not even acknowledged in the lower 
orders of the Spanish nation ; they are also 
recovering from that abandoned indolence, 
wrapt in which, and a great coat, they 

c 3 



30 A TOUR THROUGH 

would go lolling about, while their wives 
and daughters were labouring for their daily 
bread. I wish I could say as much for 
their morgadas, or esquires, in whom idle- 
ness appears to have taken a fixed root, and 
whom nothing rouses from this abominable 
apathy. Even in their societies, the men 
generally associate together, and the ladies 
retire to a different apartment, which to an 
Englishman, who derives a peculiar charm 
from female friendship, is truly irreconci- 
lable. The women are pubescent very 
young j and, as in other warm countries, 
their bloom soon goes off, and they wither 
into apparent age. They are generally ra- 
ther low in stature, with dark complexions, 
but gain a lively cast from most penetrating 
eyes and fine teeth, which, by the way, 
none of them forget to beautify. However, 
you , scarcely meet a Portuguese lady ; they 
seldom go out, but to mass, matins, or 
vespers, and are then so disguised, in hrg* 



THE ATLANTIC. 31 

hoods, that it would require a considerable 
effort of the imagination to become ena- 
moured of them. Their language may be 
called the eldest daughter of the Latin, but 
has been corrupted by their intercourse with 
the Moors ; it is harmonious and pleasant to 
the ear, and, although it has a nasal twang, 
it is far less displeasing than that which pre- 
vails in the French. Literature is at a very 
low ebb amongst them, and they seek in- 
different translations with avidity. I have 
lately perused a most skilful and elegant re- 
trospect of their letters in the Quarterly Re- 
view of May 1 809, and am sincerely indebted 
to that accomplished w T ork, for some very 
valuable and interesting information. 1 re* 
ceived extreme pleasure, too, from Lord 
Strangford's fascinating " Camoens," and 
was surprised and disappointed to find they 
have nothing like a great poem in their lan- 
guage. On speaking of their passion for 
epic poems, the Review says, " Many pas- 
c 4 



A TOUR THROUGH 

sages of striking beauty are to be found in 
these long works, and instances of extraor- 
dinary absurdity and whimsical taste are 
still more frequent. There is scarcely one 
amongst them that would not supply mate- 
rials for an amusing analysis, and specimens 
sufficient to rescue the author from con- 
tempt, and reprieve him from oblivion. 
The inimitable romance, ' Amadis of 
Gaul, 5 appears to have been one of their 
earliest productions, and perished in manu- 
script at the great earthquake at Lisbon ; and 
it is very remarkable, that this fantastic 
nation has nothing like a modern novel ex- 
tant. The bright glory of the Spanish 
theatre had eclipsed the Portuguese when its 
shadow was completed by the Castilian 
usurper, whose policy encouraged Portu- 
guese authors even to write in Spanish ; and 
since the Braganzan revolution, the drama 
has gradually declined^ till, latterly, the 
opera has shamefully supplanted it as a fa- 



THE ATLANTIC. 33 

shionable amusement. The horrible Inqui- 
sition, instituted 1526, by John III. 
(of which a History, general and secret, is 
about to be published by Mr. J. j. Stock- 
dale), although disrobed of many of its ter- 
rors, is yet too fatal a censor, for the great 
palladium- of our constitution, the liberty of 
the press, to be even known amongst them; 
and this may account for their rareness in 
modern travels. A tour through Great Bri- 
tain, for instance, would give the visitor 
more liberal ideas than would pass their or- 
deal, and no work dare be published till it 
has gone through several subordinate courts, 
and received a license from this tribunal, 
who, at their whim and caprice, draw a pen 
through whole pages, and insist on their im- 
mediate correction, or punish the trembling 
offender. This authority extends, in all its 
rigour, to their colonies, where they keep 
familiars, but who have insensibly relaxed, 
as the power of their action lessened, and 



34 A TOUR THROUGH 

they are in some parts withdrawn ; yet it 
seems but a fair tribute to the Portuguese,- 
to say, that in national history ihey are 
hardly equalled by any country. In the ze- 
nith of their glory, men lived who could* 
and did, leave monuments of achievements, 
at that time unrivalled by any nation. A 
new Royal Academy has been established by 
their present Queen, which we may hope 
will, in the days of tranquillity, and when 
the clouds that at present hang over the ca- 
pital, are dispersed, and the splendid sun of 
royalty shine amongst them, be of good ef- 
fect to the nation, and become the fountain 
of a plenteous stream to enrich the world. 5 * 

On the 24th Dec. 1 807, General Beresford, 
with the 3d and nth regiments, &c. under 
his orders, summoned the island to surrender 
to His Majesty's arms. He expected resist- 
ance, but nothing could be more conciliating 
than the conduct of the Governor, who gave 



THE ATLANTIC. 35 

directions for pitching the tents, and pro- 
curing a provision of vegetables and fre^.h 
beef for our troops. The joy of the Eng- 
lish merchants on this event can be better 
conceived than described, as they had reason 
to expect a similar summons from a French 
authority. The British flag was, of course, 
hoisted, and the General took possession of 
the government-house; however, the proper 
representations being made to our court, the 
Portuguese flag was graciously ordered to be 
re- hoisted, the Governor to resume his 
functions, and all the force to be with- 
drawn except the eleventh regiment of igoo 
strong, ana a detach nent of Royal Artillery 
under the command of the Hon. Major-ge- 
neral Meade. 

Madeira is well defended bv nature and 
art; all points, where a debarkation can be 
effected, being enfiladed with cannon ; and 
the coast, in general, rocky , with a lashing 



$6 A TOUR THROUGH 

and destructive surge, which forms a strong- 
barrier to invasion. 

The revenue of the island is, at present, 
given up to defray the enormous expense of 
cutting a vast aqueduct to prevent a recur- 
rence of the calamity which attended the de- 
luge from the mountains, wherein several 
hundred persons were destroyed, and every 
thing swept before it. A large number of 
workmen are constantly employed, and make 
a fair promise of soon completing their great 
work. 

In the roads we found His Majesty's 
ships Hindostan and Dromedary, going 
with Lieutenant-colonel Macquarie, as Go- 
vernor, and the 73d regiment, to New 
South Wales ; also the Magicienne frigate, 
and a transport with a detachment of the 
Sist Light Dragoons, under the orders of 
Captain A. Hawkes, on the passage to the 



THE ATLANTIC. 37 

Cape of Good Hope. The following even- 
ing a grand gala was given to the British 
Consul, and a large party, by Captain Lu- 
cius Curtis, on board the Magicienne. The 
quarter-deck was tastefully arranged for the 
festive dance ; olive-branches were inter- 
woven with the royal ensigns of our country, 
ornamented with the most fragrant and beau- 
tiful flowers; while the native graces and 
animated spirits of our countrywomen, who 
seemed enlivened by the recollection that 
every thing about them was belonging and 
devoted to dear England, made it a very 
happy scene. On the 1 9th of June, the con- 
voys proceeded on their voyage, and on the 
2 1 st, we reluctantly left as beautiful an 
island as any in the world, of which it may 
be justly said to be " one of those com- 
plete prospects to which no ideal beauty can 
be added." 



38 A TOUR THROUGH 

The calms that so frequently occur in 
these mild latitudes, now fell around us, 
and the following morning opened to the 
utmost tranquillity of the elements. These, 
with occasional light airs, continued for six 
days, which, of course, much protracted 
our arrival at St. Michael's, whither we 
were bound; but the vast ocean on which 
we floated, in itself a world of mighty won- 
ders, afforded us infinite amusement. Wc 
took a considerable number of fine turtle of 
the hawkVbill species, which is hardly in- 
ferior to the green turtle that is so esteemed 
from the West Indies. An epicure might 
have envied our voluptuousness. Dolphins 
art very frequent here. They chase the 
flying. ■ which rise and take wing for se- 
veral s 5 and, in their terror, have been 
known to fly a quarter of a mile, like the 
witches of old, in the wind's eye, to avoid 
their beautiful destroyers, which, in their 
turn, become a prey to the shark, and dk 



THE ATLANTIC. 39 

more beauteous than the rainbow. It is re- 
markable, that if one of a shoal of these 
sportive creatures be so hurt as to draw blood, 
he is instantly devoured by the rest. An in- 
stance happened in our sight : the poor ani- 
mal was struck by a javelin, when it seemed 
aware of its second fate, and darted from the 
shoal j but being closely followed, it made a 
desperate spring from the water, and became 
their sacrifice. The voracious shark is here 
sT'so of prodigious size and power. It sel- 
dom nears the ship, but, when hungry, 
swallows any thing that comes m its way, 
turning on its side when it makes its horrid 
bite. The method used, with almost certain 
success, by the Indian divers, for the de- 
struction of this terrific monster, is curious. 
They dive under the fish when it turns to 
make the bite, and stab it in the belly, where 
the wound is mortal. 



40 A TOUR THROUGH 

A sailor seems to bear an instinctive incli- 
nation to extirpate this general enemy to the 
creation ; but who indeed can see the destruc- 
tive monster without emotion and painful 
remembrance of the many authenticated in- 
stances of its fatal and carnivorous appetite B 
On the sixth evening, we saw a water-spout, 
which, although not so distinct as many 
have been, very much pleased me ; but I 
refer my reader to the second canto of Fal* 
coner's Shipwreck, where, as he, no doubt, 
bears in mind, is a most excellent and very 
correct description of the liquid column 

41 which towering shoots on high." 

A fair wind sprung up, and on the ist July 
we made St. Michael's, but a change directly 
contrary, kept us till the 3d, when we an- 
chored in the roads of the Ponta del Gado, 
the capital of this island, which is the chief 
of the Azores. The Azores, or Western 
Islands, extend from 37 0 to 39 0 42' N. lat. 



THE ATLANTIC. 41 

and from 2,5° to 31 0 W. long, and lie almost 
midway between Europe and America. 
They are said to have been discovered in the 
middle of the fifteenth century by Joshua 
Vander Berg, of Bruges, in Flanders, 
who, in a voyage to Lisbon, was, by stress 
of weather, driven to these islands, which 
he found destitute of inhabitants, and called 
them Flemish Islands. On his arrival at 
Lisbon, he boasted of this discovery ; on 
which the Portuguese, in that spirit of en- 
terprise, so strongly marked in their adven- 
tures of the day, immediately set sail and 
took possession of them, calling them 
Azores from the many hawks and falcons 
found among them. They are nine in 
number, and are named, Santa Maria, St. 
Miguel or Michael, Tercera, St. George, 
Graciosa, Fayal, Pico, Flores, and Corvo. 
As I purpose describing the islands in detail 
as we visited them (at least those most 
worthy notice and consideration), I shall 

D 



42 A TOUR THROUGH 

merely observe in the aggregate, that the 
importation of British manufactures (being 
the principal) amounts to about 30,000/. 
sterling annually ; and that from the United 
States they receive boards, staves, rice, 
fish, pitch, tar, iron, in pots and bars, and 
a variety of Indian goods, which are paid 
for, in exchange, by wines. They have 
occasional intercourse with Russia also. 
The sea-accustomed eye is sweetly relieved 
by the fertile appearance of St. Michael ; 
every point seems cultivated, and bears the 
charm of plenty. As the industry of its 
inhabitants is greater, so it surpasses in 
value all the other islands, and may be con- 
sidered the granary of Lisbon. It is nearly 
one hundred miles in circumference ; con- 
tains one city, five principal towns, fifty- 
four parishes, and about eighty thousand 
inhabitants. It was twice invaded and pil- 
laged by the English in the reign of Queen 
Elizabeth. The coast is very bold, and 



THE ATLANTIC* 43 

may be approached, without fear, in almost 
every part. Its military strength consists 
of 200 troops in the most deplorable and 
insubordinate state, with 6000 peasantry, 
whose arms are the pikes with which they 
drive the cattle ; but over such a rabble, 
a handful of disciplined men w T ould gain an 
immediate and decided victory. The prin- 
cipal fortification is the castle of St. Bray, 
which is close to the sea, on the west end of 
the Ponta del Gado. It consists of twenty- 
four pieces of cannon, but few of which 
are capable of service ; and a league to the 
eastward of the Ponta del Gado are two 
small three-gun forts, sans every thing in re- 
gard to efficiency ; but the island is, in itself, 
susceptible of a most rigid defence. It has 
many strong local holds ; and several of the 
hills and passes, if judiciously fortified, and 
the guns well served, would be absolutely 
impregnable. 



44 A TOUR THROUGH 

I am the more surprised at the confidence 
in which the Portuguese slumber in their 
imaginary security, when I consider of 
what ineffable advantage this island would 
be to the French, who, from its critical si- 
tuation, could so effectually annoy our out 
and homeward bound trade, and make it a 
shelter for our captured merchantmen. 
Many Spanish vessels took refuge here last 
war from our cruizers, and unloaded their 
cargoes till good opportunity offered of re- 
shipping them, for Spain, by neutrals. The 
inhabitants maintain an extensive commerce 
with England, whence they are entirely 
supplied with woollens, hardware, earthen- 
ware, and various other necessaries, send- 
ing in exchange fifty or sixty sail of ves- 
sels annually with fruit, which is produced 
here in vast abundance. The sugar-cane 
and coffee-tree likewise flourish here. 
The climate is so remarkably genial, that 
both European and tropical plants come to 



THE ATLANTIC. 45 

great perfection — a kindness in nature 
towards these islands alone. Their cattle 
are equal to ours, and superior to any in the 
world beside ; and their wine pleasant, and 
adapted to the climate. Corn, pulse, poul- 
try, and vegetables, are good and very rea- 
sonable. These combined benefits render 
the revenue very considerable. Besides the 
support of the military and civil establish- 
ments, 80,000 mille rees, each the value of 
one dollar, are, annually, sent for the use 
of the State, and might be much increased 
under men of probity and honour. 

The Ponta del Gado, or city, as they term 
it, like Funchall, looks exceedingly pleasant 
from the offing, and derives an air of dig- 
nity from the convents, which are nume- 
rous, and many of them considerable build- 
ings ; but how lamentable is it to think 
they are the melancholy confinement of 
numberless charming, and, some of them, 

*>3 



46 A TOUR THROUGH 

very accomplished women, imprisoned from 
the joys of domestic happiness by the 
authors of their being, in whom the power- 
ful pleadings of nature have been neglected, 
and the prayers of their devoted offspring 
disregarded. — Yes !— Avarice and vanity, 
that their sons may live in luxury, have ope- 
rated thus powerfully on the degraded 
mind, and blunted the feelings of a father. 
How must the humane heart sympathize 
with these tender sisters of misfortune, in 
whom the gentle glow of filial gratitude and 
love is chilled for ever ! and, alas ! they are 
veiled from the sacred offices of a faithful 
wife and fond mother. How erroneous 
is the generally received opinion, that their 
seclusion is at their own wish ! From what 
I have myself learnt of them, and the many 
instances given of their absolute aversion to 
become the victims of a delusive faith, I 
am convinced that two thirds, at least, are 
under the hard and direful necessity of obe- 



THE ATLANTIC. 47 

dience. I cannot avoid relating a notorious 
instance of this fact — it lately occurred at 
the convent Esperanza, and was the topic 
of general conversation at the Ponta del 
Gado when we left it : — 

Two young noviciates had evinced the 
strongest dislike and repugnance to take 
the veil — their inhuman father persisted in 
his plan — they prayed, they intreated their 
return to liberty, to their home, and to so- 
ciety ; but, when the monster found his so- 
phistry and persuasion availed not, he had 
recourse to threats, and even insinuated that 
their lives would be endangered by their 
hesitating at the aw 7 ful moment, when 
they were to pass an irrevocable sentence on 
themselves for ever ! — The awful moment 
came — they were unable to support the tor- 
rent of their feelings, and sunk in woe un- 
utterable, while the ceremony was, for the 
greater part, performed, though they were 



48 A TOUR THROUGH 

insensible to all that passed. But to the 
sequel. The son, for whom the sacrifice 
was made, has proved an outlaw to every 
virtuous sentiment of duty and feeling : the 
penitence of the wretched father awakens 
compassion, and an involuntary-tear startles 
at the altar of his contrition. 

I had the good fortune to visit the con- 
vents with some persons well known and 
highly esteemed, most particularly so 
those of St. Andrew, St. John, and Con- 
ception. In the latter are seven sisters, 
all extremely interesting, and who bear a 
stronger affinity to our own lovely coun- 
trywomen than any I have met with. 
What feelings must these scenes create in a 
heart at all devoted to a sex full of claims to 
our protection and love ! There is a cere- 
mony in obtaining an audience that must be 
duly observed : — At one of the entrances is a 
box, at which you knock, and are politely 



^THE ATLANTIC. 49 

answered by one of the nuns, who take 
turns at this duty ; you then ask the favour 
of seeing your friend, and should it not in- 
terfere with, or intrude on the duties of the 
convent, with the permission of the lady 
abbess, you are directed to a particular 
porch, where you meet and converse, 
through an iron grate, which is the utmost 
limit of their indulgence, and the boundary 
of their social happiness. It is not unire- 
quent for one of these agreeable girls f o have 
a favourite, and carry on a* lively corre- 
spondence, with all the endearments a Pla- 
tonic attachment can admit ; endeavouring 
to persuade themselves there is no barrier to 
the completion of their wishes ; but, alas ! 
the fatal vow too often recurs, palsies the 
throbbing heart, and marks a dejecuon on 
the countenance, that the languid flash of. a 
beauteous eye cannot dissipate. They evi- 
dently feel under restraint in the presence of 
Portuguese visitors, and as soon as they with- 



50 A TOUR THROUGH 

draw, conversation takes a new and sprightly- 
turn. They are refined, delicate, and 
graceful ; and should you present them with 
a token of friendship, they make handsome 
returns of fruits, preserves, and also artifi- 
cial flowers, which are made by themselves 
in great beauty and elegance. The officers 
of the Vestal were in high estimation 
among them ; and from their having been 
there twice before, and paid them every 
polite and endearing attention, became ca- 
ressed favourites. On the ship's coming to 
anchorage she was instantly recognised, and 
white handkerchiefs were thrown out at 
each convent in token of their joy and 
agreeable surprise ; and on her leaving the 
port, every kind wish and prayer for the 
happiness and success of their heroes was 
wafted to heaven in their sighs. Many of 
them have a fine taste for music, and, on 
special occasions, they have oratorios, when 
their orchestra is grand and full. Each part 



THE ATLANTIC. 51 

is filled by these fair daughters of St. Ce- 
cilia, in a manner, evidently the conse- 
quence of polite education. The Senhora 
Theresa Jacinta Amalia, of the convent of 
St. John, is mistress of the band, at their 
jubilee, and possesses exquisite talent. She 
performs on several instruments, and unites 
extraordinary powers of voice, with the 
most refined taste and moving expression, 
equalled by nothing I have heard, since the 
fascinating Italian, Catalani. Their style 
of composition is very fanciful j I have 
been perfectly ravished with a plaintive can- 
zonet and guitar accompaniment from the 
elegant Theresa ; in fact, there is a charm in 
this female not to be resisted. 

The manners and customs of the convents 
do not much differ, at least in regard to 
their outward forms and appearance, w r hich 
is all I can speak to, their interior regula- 
tions being mentioned with the utmost pre- 



52 A TOUR THROUGH 

caution and delicacy. Their dress is a black 
habit, the hair cut close, and a sort of mob 
cap : the holy veil, which their trembling 
lips have kissed, falling back on their 
shoulders. Their superior, or lady abbess* 
is elected for a limited period, usually three 
years, and is then succeeded by another of 
the sisterhood* Great friendship and har- 
mony seem to exist among them ; they are 
acquainted with every proceeding in the 
neighbourhood, and some of them are ever* 
conversant with the politics of Europe. But, 
even in these gloomy walls where they are 
confined like malefactors in a dungeon, they 
derive at least one of the greatest benefits of 
the world, an education; and which, were 
they in the world, they would not receive ; 
for, strange as it may seem, even the daugh- 
ters of the people of entailed property and 
independence, are, many of them, ignorant 
of their letters, — yes ! — of their ABC! 



THE ATLANTIC. 53 

Nor can it longer be a matter of surprise 
that their belles lettres should be so uncul- 
tivated, and that they should scarcely have 
a polite writer of their language. 

To be attached to the country we are born 
in, is as instinctive as the love we bear to our 
parents; but how does this honourable pre- 
dilection increase, when, in a distant region, 
you feel its superiority ! Thus, when I was 
informed and convinced of the foregoing 
circumstance, the wit, beauty, and accom- 
plishments of my unrivalled countrywomen, 
could not but press upon my grateful re- 
membrance. 

There are two frieries in the city^ of the 
Franciscan and Dominican orders. The 
costume of the former is a black habit, with 
a monstrous, white, broad-brimmed hat, a 
girdle and cross, and the hair shaved from 
the top of the skull. The Dominican is a 

4 



54 A TOUR THROUGH 

white habit, with some distinction, that I 
could not ascertain, having seen but one of 
the order, which is very much reduced in 
number. However, we visited the Fran- 
ciscans, who are numerous; they received 
us very kindly, led us through their apart- 
ment, offered us wine, and shewed us their 
chapel, which is gaudy, but has an ex- 
tremely good organ. Several of them ac- 
companied us on board the frigate, and en- 
tered, with great glee and humour, into the 
merits of our wine, with an apt partiality, 
forgetful of their monkish tenets, for those 
of the most powerful quality. Under the 
influence of their own spirit they are very 
slothful, and have none of that lively inte- 
rest in the manners of the day, that so 
strongly marks the character of the sister- 
hood. In short, a sensation of disgust is 
inevitable at these torpid instances of igno- 
rance and superstition ; and whose ethics, 



TH£ ATLANTIC. 55 

moral principles, and habits of life, are, by 
no means, honourable. 

There is no manifest difference, in this place, 
from Funchall, but it is deficient in the salu- 
tary regulations of it, from the neglect of the 
civil authorities to keep the streets clean and 
clear of pigs and cattle, which are a great nui- 
sance, especially in the heat of the day. But 
what can be expected, when "we know, that, 
from the governor and judge, to the very 
mule-drivers, exist corruption and filth ? 
It can hardly be credited, that an officer of 
rank in our navy went, on a point of ser- 
vice, to the wretched Governor, who is a 
major of horse in their army ; and, after 
waiting some minutes, he was informed by 
a slovenly uncouth fellow, who it seems 
was his aid-de-camp, that " the Governor 
had got the itch, was bathing for the cure 
'of it, and therefore could not be seen !" 
This unblushing, but absolute fact, would 



56 A TOUR THROUGH 

not satisfy the British officer, who insisted 
on the itchy Governor's appearance. 

Religion of course enthrals the lower 
orders in particular, who are kept in utter 
ignorance, that they may be the more easily 
deluded ; and, of consequence, their 
places of public worship, and religious cere- 
monies, are all alike extravagant and ido- 
latrous. I was present at the funeral of a 
woman of the middling class ; she was car- 
ried on a bier, followed by her relations, 
chanting passages from Scripture. The 
body, on being placed in the middle of the 
church, was uncovered, and surrounded 
with wax flambeaux. After an extremely 
long service, part of which was in Latin, 
they deposited the body, without a coffin, 
which they never use, in the grave, throw- 
ing in lime to hasten decay j though it lies 
there but a short time; for, in turn, 
this same little allotment is formed to the 



TH E ATLANTIC. $J 

aanie purpose, and the half-mouldered 
body is thrown iiito a place set apart in 
each church, than which to contemplate, 
nothing Can be more distressing j-^they 
have no burial-ground attached to their 
churches— I looked into one of these horrid 
cemeteries : it contained the shattered skele-* 
tons of several hundred bodies, in the va* 
rious stages of natural decay ! These are 
the moments when the decent and respect- 
ful manners of the Protestant church appear 
in a beauteous modesty i that the gaudy 
magnificence of Catholic splendour can 
never attain ! Here we pause to bless the 
God who has placed us beyond the deceit of 
infatuating bigotry, and taught us meekness 
and humble prayer. I have witnessed the 
habits of a people that dishonour the finest 
works of Nature, and exist insensible of the 
favours she heaps upon them. 



58 A TOUR THROUGH 

Severely should we have experienced the 
want of an interpreter and guide, had we 
not found these qualities in W. H. Read, 
Esq. the British Consul, who added to 
them an intelligence and hospitality rarely 
united in one man. Many years' service in 
the Navy inculcated the generous sentiment 
that ever after lives in those who can feel a 
pleasure in pleasing ; and among the first of 
such happily disposed men is Mr. Read, 
Anxious that we should witness the most 
interesting part of the island during our 
limited visit at his house, he proposed we 
should survey the Fournas, or Hot Waters, 
situated in a vale so called, 30 miles from 
the city, and about seven leagues by the sea, 
which is within seven miles of the vale. The 
heat of the weather, and other considera- 
tions, induced us to prefer going in our own 
boat ; accordingly, at dawn the next day, 
after laying in a good stock of grog, we 



THE ATLANTIC. 59 

started from the pier of Ponta del Gado, 
and commenced our aquatic excursion. 

On our approach to the small bay imme- 
diately round Ponta de Abufeira, we saw 
many of the inhabitants of the little huts, 
which were scattered on the neighbouring 
mountains, coming down the beach, each 
driving before him an ass. They launched 
one of the boats with considerable dexterity, 
and landed us without inconvenience from 
the surge. They were happy to engage in 
our service, and, it appeared, came down 
for the purpose. After hauling our cutter 
on the strand, we each mounted our beast, 
and, with those appointed to carry our pro- 
vision, proceeded up one of the vast preci- 
pices with which the island abounds. The 
animals, we were told, were well acquainted 
with the safest track, and that disaster 
would be occasioned by our interference with 
them ; we were therefore without bridle or 



£ 2 



00 A TOUR THROUGH 

halter, and our lives depended on the 
strength and wisdom of an ass ! As we as- 
cended, however, we lost all thought of 
danger, and our senses were only alive to 
the stupendous efforts of Nature. Awfully 
grand, magnificent, and sublime, were the 
works she presented to us, in endless va- 
riety, as we gained the higher part. It is 
scarcely possible to exhibit to the mind so 
grand a panorama: — the picturesque, sub- 
lime, and beautiful, formed a coup frceU, 
that no words can paint, no imagination, 
can conceive. We occasionally halted to 
contemplate the scene. The falling water, 
from the mountain, rung with a mighty 
crash in the extensive cavity, and was an- 
swered again in the cultivated valley, 
through which the pellucid stream ran 
gently murmuring. The wild myrtle and 
flourishing vine embraced the stubborn 
rock ; the varied foliage, and cinder-sided 
height, excited the feelings to wonder and 

2 



THE ATLANTIC. 6l 

admiration. Providence, ever thoughtful 
of the necessities of her creatures, here 
compensates and relieves the hardships of 
the peasant in climbing the mountains, by 
the numbers of asses, whose strength seems 
to increase in proportion to the difficulty ; 
and they are so numerous, that the poorest 
cottager owns two or three. Our guides, 
nevertheless, followed us on foot, hallooing 
joyously at their good fortune in being so 
well employed, and paid us great attention, 
though quite insensible to the romantic 
charms by which they were surrounded. 
When we had ascended about a quarter of a 
mile, we saw a thick steam issuing from 
the side of the mountain which we were 
climbing : it produced a dampness at the 
aperture, too hot to bear your hand near it ; 
even this, either from custom or stupidity, 
and, perhaps, from both, they carelessly 
passed, without pointing it out as worthy 
notice. On gaining the summit, the change 
e 3 



6l A TOUR THROUGH 

of climate was very considerable, and wc 
felt the effect as we journeyed on the flat 
for about two miles, and on which we 
passed a beautiful lake, situated between 
two mountains, and abounding in fish of 
many species, particularly of the gold and 
silver kind. An instance of the infallible 
instinct of the ass here occurred to me : I 
was riding at the best pace along the widest 
road, when he suddenly turned off, and 
crossed into a less trodden path ; this he 
persisted in, though, by beating him on 
the other side of the head, he found I 
wished him to continue where he was, as 
the slightest tap in general guides them, 
and is the method the peasants use in direct- 
ing them on ordinary occasions; but, on 
rising higher up, I was surprised to find, 
that, had he continued a few yards further 
below, we must both have been precipitated 
into a vast and dreadful abyss, which the 
peculiar nature of the ground absolutely 



THE ATLANTIC, 63 

concealed from the sight, till on the very- 
brink. We were informed that this part of 
the road had fallen in very recently, and, if 
we may judge from appearances, a few 
years will make this place very dangerous, 
if not absolutely impassable. 

A beautiful vale now opened upon us, in 
which the Fournas are situated, and the vil- 
lage so called. The cottages have a sweet 
effect, being neatly whitewashed ; and with 
the church, trees, &c. forma striking con- 
trast to the vast amphitheatre of mountains, 
by which they are encircled. The descent 
to the village is very abrupt for about three 
quarters of a mile. On entering it, we 
agreed with some of the peasants for the use 
of their huts, which they gladly gave up for 
a trifling present, and attended with much 
civility, contenting themselves, during the 
night, with a slight shelter under a neigh- 
bouring tree. Naturally anxious to witness 
d 4 



64 A TOUR THROUGH 

the extraordinary phenomenon, for which w$ 
had come some leagues by water, and crossed 
the dangerous mountains, we hastened to 
the Fournas, a name which is derived from 
the Latin Fornacula, a furnace. Vast co^ 
lumns of steam marked the spot, and im- 
pregnated the air with sulphur. Afte? 
crossing some hot springs, we came to the 
large basin of boiling water ; the whole of 
which was in violent agitation, and, in the 
middle, was thrown up several feet. We 
foiled an egg in two minutes, and one of 
our men boiled some ship pease, to the no 
small amusement of his comrades, who 
made some of those quaint remarks on this 
« e devil of place," as they termed it, that 
could originate only in such eccentric cha- 
racters. It was many yards in circum- 
ference; the heat it emitted was excessive, 
and in some positions, from a neighbour- 
ing cause, absolutely suffocating. On 
crossing a high bank, we found that this was 



THE ATLANTIC* 65 

occasioned from another crater, concealed in 
a vast cavern, infinitely more powerful, 
witha mighfy roar throwing up vast quan- 
tities of mud and water visibly boiling. It 
is impossible to contemplate this extraor- 
dinary appearance without emotion, and a 
fearful admiration of that great Being who 
calmly forms these miracles to operate on 
the minds and conduct of his creatures. 
There can be no doubt of the powerful ef- 
fect of these waters as a medicine, if their 
properties were well understood, and their 
peculiar qualities adapted to the nature of 
the disease ; but, alas ! from want of skill 
and the prevalence of superstition, they have 
been alternately esteemed and neglected, 
without any careful observance of their phy- 
sical superiority by analysis or experience, 
I rejoice, however, to be able to add, that an 
intelligent countryman, Doctor Stanton, has 
just taken up a temporary residence there, 
avowedly to decompose them, and will, 



1 



66 A TOUR THROUGH 

without doubt, present the world with much 
valuable information on the subject of these 
inestimable restoratives, and bring them to 
the general knowledge and unbounded wel- 
fare of mankind. 

The baths close by are as hot as you can 
possibly require, and we found them very 
refreshing after our exertions, which had 
much wearied us. We could not but lament 
the miserable state in which they are kept ; 
they have a mere covering, or shed, without 
the least attention to convenience or comfort ; 
added to this, they are frequented by persons 
of the meanest condition who, though la- 
bouring under diseases of the most offensive 
and contagious nature, are not excluded 
from them : we should certainly have 
refrained our gratification, had we then 
been conscious of this abuse; it may, how- 
ever, in no material way affect the intrinsic 
advantages of the place, to those who visit 
it for health ; labour being cheap, materials 



THE ATLANTIC. 67 

abundant, and ground to build on, with a 
current of hot spring, to be had for a slight 
compensation. 

About a quarter of a mile distant, are the 
iron springs which, from their strong mi- 
neral qualities, claim the peculiar attention 
of the physician, chymist, and philosopher ; 
and, to the invalid, also, they seem to offer 
much hope. From their taste and colour, 
the meanest understanding will discover how 
much they partake the substance of iron, 
but the same absurd inconsistencies and su- 
perstitions have caused them, like the hotter 
waters, to be neglected. At present, How- 
ever, many native invalids are trying their 
effect ; but without consulting the manner 
of use or application, as the naiure of their 
case may require. Indeed, the most extra- 
vagant anecdotes are giv< n of their infatua- 
tion : a convalescent has been known to use 
the hot baths twenty and thirty times a day, 



68 A TOUR THROUGH 

which has reduced him to an incredible state 
of relaxation and weakness, and brought on 
premature dissolution. 

I cannot omit to notice the number of 
compliments we received from the natives, 
who were there for the waters ; many of 
them sent servants to request we would con- 
sider their cottages, &c. at our service and 
disposal. The Corregidor, or Chief Justice, 
shewed us remarkable attention ; and, on 
our calling the next morning to acknowledge 
his politeness, produced a sideboard of the 
richest wines and best fruits of the season. 
Still a reflecting mind could not but acknow- 
ledge the superior customs of Old England. 
An air of refined elegance and solid comfort 
prevails in the house of an English gentle- 
man, that you look for, in vain, amongst 
that large branch of society abroad. How 
grateful are these sensations, and how do 
they dilate the fond heart, that languishes 



THE ATLANTIC. 69 

for the charms of its endeared and native 
home ! 

The circumstances of our visit being of 
an imperious nature, we were under the 
hard necessity of leaving the vale without 
considering it with the careful eye of minute 
observation. It must, therefore, be the 
pleasing task of those who may have the ad- 
vantage of a lengthened residence, to describe 
the internal economy of a place hitherto little 
known, though replete with claims for ge- 
neral study. Our return was not attended 
by any new incident. The same sublime 
scenes renewed those exquisite sensations 
with which we had before contemplated 
them. 

On our gaining the first acclivity, I ob- 
served a similar appearance to that which 
distinguished the Fournas, in a distant di- 
rection, and ascertained it to proceed from 



70 A TOUR THROUGH 

the same causa accompanied by a more pe- 
culiar circumstance ; but which our confined 
time would not permit us to witness, viz. 
the hot and cold springs running parallel, 
and so close to each other, that you may put 
a hand in both at the same time. It is 
thought by the inhabitants, that eruptions 
would be more frequent here, were it not for 
the vast quantities of water which moderate 
the burning fury of the combustible matter* 
Indeed the shore and interior roads are co- 
vered with pumice-stone ; but as this em* 
braces a point of deep philosophy, I shall 
dismiss it without presuming to venture a 
comment. 

Here we paused to take a last survey of 
the beautiful vale, whither a man with 
his family might emigrate, and, on a very 
small income, live in the sweet state of Ar- 
cadian ease and happiness ; and then con- 
tinued our journey, highly gratified by our 
4 



THE ATLANTIC. *]l 

visit to the vale of Fournas. We found our 
descent on the beach productive of more 
nervous agitation than can easily be con- 
ceived j the turns are so sudden, and the 
giddy precipice gaping, as it were, to re- 
ceive you, caused the blood to ebb and flow 
with more than ordinary quickness. I took 
the precaution to ride sideways, with my 
back to the gulf ; that, if the poor creature 
should stumble, I might fall the right way. 
The humble animal, however, to which 
I had committed my safety, honest to his 
trust, bore me without an accident to the 
bottom. The streamer floated on the wave, 
and the generous gale brought us quickly to 
the Ponta del Gado. 

The town which now ranks next to the 
Ponta del Gado, in this island, is called Re- 
beria Grande. It is situated on the north 
side j is large and populous ; but having no 
anchorage, and the harbour being filled 



*Jt A TOUR THftOTTGH 

tvith dangerous shoals, it is dependent on 
the south side for its commercial supplies. 
At the distance of a league to the eastward, is 
a small bay, or basin, called Ponto Formoso, 
into which a line of battle ship might run in 
case of extreme distress, and lie moored in 
safety ; but the appearance of the land is so 
dreadful as to render a good pilot indispen- 
sible. 

The town of Villa Franca, on the south 
side, distant from Ponta del Gado a few 
miles, is said to have once been the capital 
of the island, but was reduced by an earth- 
quake, from the shock of which it never re- 
covered, owing, perhaps, to the inferiority 
of its anchorage, which c;\n only receive 
small vessels. The Consul, who has de- 
voted much of his time to ascertaining the 
advantages that may be derived for his 
country, has drawn an admirable chart of 
the island, which he liberally presents to 



THE ATLANTIC. . 73 

His Majesty's officers who visit the anchor- 
age > and must thereby much benefit the ser- 
vice ; the dangers being correctly marked 
down, and the safest anchoring-ground ex- 
hibited. Mr. Read has also drawn a plan 
for deepening and enlarging the mole, to 
receive vessels of a considerable draught of 
water ; and remarks, " that the mole having 
a sandy bottom, a canal may be cut into the 
square of St. Francis, which would receive 
a large number of vessels, and thus, at a 
small expense, produce the greatest a .-id 
most beneficial effect to the island, and to its 
commercial relations." 

The Portuguese government have exa- 
mined and much approved Mr. Read's pro- 
position, but have neither spirit nor inclina- 
tion to do a national service. They keep 
their subjects in trammels, without consult- 
ing their interest or happiness. A govern- 
ment almost, if not absolutely, despotic; 

F 



74 A TOUR THROUGH 

supported by military on the one hand, and 
an arbitrary religion on the other, acts alone 
from its whim and caprice. What, for in- 
stance, would be the feelings of an English- 
man, tremblingly alive to the most refined 
sentiments of civil liberty, at reading the 
preamble of every new law published by the 
Prince Regent, and which runs thus : " I, 
the King, in virtue of my own certain 
knowledge, of my own royal will and plea- 
sure, and of my full, supreme, and arbi- 
trary power, which I hold only of God, 
and for which I am accountable to no man' 
on earth, do in consequence order and com- 
mand, 5 ' &c. &c. &c. 

We here see the infinite justice and wis- 
dom of the Almighty, who disposes the 
portion of man. Abundance is given to 
these people, and they drink of the cup of 
plenty ; but he wills that they suffer other 
privations, and curtails their lot of liberty. 



THE ATLANTIC. 75 

The island of St. Mary is almost always 
visible from St. Michael's, being only sixty 
miles distant. It is subject to its civil juris- 
prudence, and is much frequented by Spa- 
nish vessels from South America and 
Cadiz, which advances its consideration as 
one of the smaller islands. 

On Monday the 10th, we weighed and 
steered to the N. W. ; but the breeze gradu- 
ally lessening, we enjoyed the soft climate 
in perfection. The horizon, in the even- 
ing, glowing with the rays of the setting 
sun, exhibited a sweetness and majesty pe- 
culiar to these latitudes. Here the most ex- 
quisite natural colouring is blended with a 
climate the most serenely beautiful, and 
which could not fail of equally exalting and 
gratifying the reflecting mind ; but the very 
short twilight lessens the fleeting im- 
pression, and the swiftly-advancing shades 
of night suddenly close the heavenly evanes- 



76 A TOUR THROUGH 

cent scene from our longing, lingering 
sight. Shortly after succeeds the unex- 
plained but beauteous phenomenon, the lu- 
minous appearance of the sea, at night, 
which exhibits a most magnificent spectacle. 
The water seems to emit a lively light, 
which is sometimes of a pale red colour, re- 
sembling sparks ; at other times, exhibiting 
the appearance of a regular stream of fire in 
the ship's wake. It is, occasionally, to be 
observed during fresh winds, but in light 
airs, or in a calm, it is contemplated in all 
its majesty. I have seen a shoal of bonettas 
come alongside at such periods, and the 
effulgent rays from them, in the water, 
dazzled my eyes ; for although fish may 
not be the primary cause, they certainly add 
to the bright lustre of this extraordinary 
phenomenon. 

How uncertain are moments of tranquil- 
lity ! — The following afternoon a fresh 



THE ATLANTIC. 77 

breeze sprung up, and, in the course of an 
hour, changed from the favourable point, 
and much increased. 

Oh the 13th, we made the island of Pico ; 
but as it blew too hard to run to the adja- 
cent anchorage in Fayal, we tacked and 
kept the offing. As we stood in again the 
following day, we had a grand view of the 
peak of this vast mountain, the height of 
which is exceeded by few known to ma- 
riners. The sun had dissipated the higher 
clouds, and the lofty apex, from which 
smoke issued, seemed to tower above the 
heavens. The declining orb progressively 
cleared the horizon, and opened the whole 
mountain to the astonished sight, 

It is thirty-seven miles in circumference ; 
the middle, lower parts, and base, are co- 
vered with vines, which annually produce 
from i6,coq to 24,000 pipes of wine of a 
f 3 



^8 A. TOUR THROUGH 

nature resembling Rhenish ; it has of late 
years been much improved, and may yet be 
brought nearer to perfection. It becomes 
quite mellow in three years, and in less time 
if sent a few months voyage. Of late, the 
principal export has been to the West Indies, 
for the use of the British navy and army, 
and experience proves it a good preventive 
to the pestilential diseases of that climate. 

The island grows little besides the vine, and 
they get their principal supplies from Fayal, 
which is separated from Pico by a narrow 
strait of ten miles. The vineyards of 
Pico belonging to the principal people at 
Fayal, the grapes are taken across, the 
wine is made at Fayal, and takes the name 
of that island, which accounts for our never 
hearing of Pico wine. 

On the 17th, the wind coming quite 
fair for Newfoundland, Captain Gra- 



THE ATLANTIC. 79 

ham determined not to lose a moment. We 
bore up, and, early the next day, ran be- 
tween the small islands of Corvo and Flores, 
the most northern of the Azores. The 
latter takes its name from the many beautiful 
flowers found in it ; and Corvo from many 
crows having been found in it on its discovery. 
It abounds, too, in a small breed of cows. 
The Vestal touched at it in the last year, and 
the Captain bought a nice little cow and 
calf for seven dollars, iL i is. 6d. sterling, 
and brought them safe home ; the cow 
giving a fair quantity of milk even on dry 
food. 

This night we were surprised by a tre- 
mendous and alarming storm of thunder and 
lightning from the west quarter, fortunately 
attended with a deluge of rain. The oldest 
and most experienced sailors on board had 
scarcely witnessed any thing more awful. 
The storm seemed passing over our heads ; 
? 4 



SO A TOUR THROUGH 

the nitrous and destructive fluid fell all 
around, and emblazoned the heavens, for 
many seconds, with little intervals, which 
were a " darkness visible. 53 The rolling 
peals of thunder warned us of approaching 
danger ; but every precaution was taken to 
secure us from accident or mishap, and, un- 
der the blessing of Heaven, we weathered 
the storm without misfortune, whilst the re- 
turning sun, i 6 with healing on its wings, 3> 
soothed, with its benign influence, the pre- 
viously agitated bosom of the deep. 

We had now little novelty; occasional 
changes of wind, with a few hours calm, 
kept us till the 28th, when we reached 
the Great Bank of Newfoundland, situated 
in lat. 41° to 50° N. and long. 49° to 53 0 3c/ 
W. about eighty miles from the island j 
one hundred and eighty leagues in extreme 
length, and from sixty to seventy leagues 
across in the broadest part. It is almost al- 



THE ATLANTIC. 



8l 



ways covered with an exceedingly thick fog, 
which extends for many leagues round it, 
and has, at a vast distance, the appearance 
of land looming in the horizon. The fish 
on it will be noticed in my memoranda from 
the island, but their quantity surpasses all 
belief. This Bank, from being well known, 
gives good soundings, and is of great ser- 
vice as a departure; it enables the ma- 
riner to make the land w r ith confidence and 
security, which would otherwise, from the 
heavy fog, be a work of dangerous uncer- 
tainty. 

Early on the morning of Sunday 30th 
. July, we made the land, and, at noon, an- 
chored in the snug harbour of St. John. 

Newfoundland is situated in North Ame- 
rica, between 52 0 and 58 0 W. long, and 
between 47 0 and 52° N. lat. The strait of 
Belle Isle divides it from Esquimaux, and it 



82 



A TOUR THROUGH 



is about forty miles N. E. of Cape Breton. 
The length is three hundred and fifty miles 
from north to south, and two hundred miles 
across in the widest part. 

The first knowledge we appear to have 
had of Newfoundland was in the reign of 
Henry VIII. in 1536, when a cos mo- 
graph er persuaded some friends to accom- 
pany him on a voyage of discovery to the 
north-west part of America. After many 
hardships, they made this island, and called 
it " New founde lande. J> Their difficulties 
increased ; hunger preyed amongst them, 
and their sufferings were dreadful. Fear of 
wild beasts and the savages of the island, 
kept them from seeking food in the inte- 
rior; and one man horridly murdered his 
shipmate, who was stooping to pick up a 
stick. 



THE ATLANTIC. 83 

On the following day, one of the crew, 
coming on shore, smelt broiled meat, and 
accused the other of living for himself alone, 
while his poor friends were vainly starving : 
he burst into tears, and said it was part of 
the buttock of him whom he had killed for 
food. After a long catalogue of misfor- 
tunes, a few of these unhappy sufferers 
reached the western coast of England, and 
could give but an imperfect account of their 
discovery. 

Nothing seems to have been again con- 
sidered of this, at present, valuable posses- 
sion, till 1583, when Sir Humphrey Gil- 
bert, Knight, ventured to explore the 
northern part of America, and received a 
charter from Her Majesty Elizabeth, to in- 
habit, at his discretion, all lands he might 
discover, not under the government and in 
the possession of a Christian Prince. Many 
men of character joined in an enterprise that 



84 A TOUR THROUGH 

seemed to hold out fair promises of gain 
and distinction. 

He set sail from Plymouth on the nth 
June 1583, with several vessels under his 
direction; but so unlearned were they in the 
naval science at that period, that they were 
hardly decided in the course or direction 
they should steer. After encountering what 
were then considered dangers, difficulties, 
and trials, they passed the Great Bank, and 
arrived at St. John's harbour on the 3d of 
August. They there found vessels of all 
nations on the fishing trade; and the follow- 
ing appears to have been the manner oi its 
being taken possession for Her Majesty the 
Queen : 

*> Monday following, August the 5th, 
the General had his tent set up ; who, be- 
ing accompanied with his own followers, 
summoned the marchants and masters, both- 



THE ATLANTIC. 3jJ 

English and strangers, to be present at his 
taking possession of those countries. Before 
whom openly was read, and interpreted vnto 
the strangers, his commission, by virtue 
whereof, he tooke possession in the same 
harbour of St. John, and two hundred 
leagues every way, invested the Queen's 
Maiestie with the title and dignitie thereof ; 
had delivered vnto him, after the custome 
of England, a rod and a turffe of the same 
soile, entering possession for him, his 
heires, and asignees for ever." 

We cannot but lament the sudden fate of 
this enterprising character, who, after a few 
arrangements for the welfare of his new ac- 
quisition, anxiously continued his voyage 
of discovery, and was lost in a storm. 
With him the interests of the infant possession 
seem to have paused till the reign of King 
William, when We find the Legislature sen- 
sible of the advantages that would arise from 



86 A TOUR THROUGH 

a cultivation of the Newfoundland fisheries % 
and a direct communication was opened 
with His Majesty's liege subjects. They 
also formed salutary laws and regulations, 
and offered considerable advantages to those, 
who should arrive first at the fishing season, 
which is from spring to autumn. Its rapid 
progress, however, soon rendered it neces- 
sary to establish tribunals for the cogni- 
zance of crimes, which were before only 
punishable in England j and by the recom- 
mendation of persons, selected by His Ma- 
jesty, to consider and report for the inte- 
rests of the settlement, it was decided by 
royal pleasure, that the Captains of the con- 
voy ships should have power to regulate 
abuses at Newfoundland, and that, for the 
preservation of good order and the dignity of 
the church, chaplains should be appointed 
to the said convoy ships. 



THE ATLANTIC, 87 

In 1708, from particular motives, it was 
determined that the senior naval officer 
should command such troops as were doing 
duty on the island, and the necessary com- 
missions were made out. It was shortly 
after in contemplation to appoint commis- 
sioners of the customs, to prevent illicit 
trade; but the firm hold and ascendancy 
the French had obtained, rendered measures 
of defence the first and prevailing object of 
consideration. 

During the year 1710, strong representa- 
tions were made on the part of the mer- 
chants, beseeching that Newfoundland 
should in any treaty of peace be wholly re- 
served to the English : consequently, at the 
peace of Utrecht, the French were required, 
and did cede all their settlements here to us, 
they retaining nothing more than a license 
to come and go during the fishing season. 
This gave a new spirit to the government 



88 A TOUR THROUGH 

and merchants, and promised high remune- 
ration to their diligence. Captain Osborne 
seems to have been the first civil governor 
appointed with authority to administer oaths, 
and to appoint justices of the peace, and 
other officers to regulate abuses, and preserve 
the tranquillity of the island. He accord- 
ingly made the best and most salutary ar- 
rangements for effecting the good purpose 
of the Crown; but he had many prejudices 
and difficulties to encounter, in bringing 
people of low habits and manners, and dis- 
solute principles, to a sense of order and an 
inclination to honesty and fair dealing. This 
required every precaution and address, and 
could alone be the work of time, patience, 
and unshaken perseverance. After consider- 
able opposition on the part of the mer- 
chants, and a ferment that has not subsided 
to this day ; in 1764, a custom-house was 
built, officers were appointed, and fees esta- 
blished ; which contributed, in the mostessen- 



THE ATLANTIC. 89 

tial way, to the full establishment of the 
civil authority of the place. 

From this period, Newfoundland seems 
to have risen rapidly, and the succession of 
years has produced the most interesting and 
almost incredible improvement in the settle- 
ment. 

In 1789, from the wise and cogent sug- 
gestion of Mr. Graham, who was Secretary 
to Admiral Milbanke during his govern- 
ment here, at that period, a Court of Com- 
mon Pleas was instituted, to proceed, by a 
jury, in the form and manner of a Court of 
Common Law in England, which, strange 
as it may seem, was, for a time, much 
complained of. However, it is pleasing to 
recollect that this mild and impartial ar- 
rangement came from the heart of a gentle- 
man, who now fills a distinguished seat in 
the judicature of the mother-country. About 

G 



90 A TOUR THROUGH 

the same time, surrogates were deputed by 
the Governor to assist him in his arduous 
duties ; and they are now always sent into 
the out-harbours, to hear causes, and adjust 
differences, which they do according to the 
principles of the established laws ; and 
make reports for the sanction of His Excel- 
lency. 

For the last twenty years, officers of 
high rank and distinguished merit have, suc- 
cessively, held the commission of Governor, 
Captain-general, and Commander in Chief, 
&c. &c. of Newfoundland and its depen- 
dencies. Under their influence, not only 
the general interests of the settlement have 
■■continued to increase and ripen, but its re- 
venues to the Crown have become a matter 
of valuable consideration. Newfoundland 
is also of the very first importance to Great 
Britain, from the nursery formed, by its 
fisheries, for the navy ; and it assists the ma- 



THE ATLANTIC. 91 

nufactories by employing many persons, 
who are thereby enabled to consume the 
produce, and is of considerable moment in 
point of trade and commerce. 

Several hundred sail of vessels are usually 
laden here during the fishing season, when 
it is computed, that ten thousand persons 
assemble from various parts of the globe, 
many of whom are prevented staying the 
winter from the extreme severity of the 
climate, the snow being on the ground for 
months without a change. The last win- 
ter is said to have been very trying ; money 
could not procure the necessaries of life, 
and the lower class of people were in a state 
of starvation. The snow was frequently 
•over the roofs of the cottages, and the inha- 
bitants were absolutely dug out, to save them 
from suffocation. During these heavy 
drifts, tfie slays, or sledges, which they 
have, drawn by horses, were useless, and 
G 2 



gz A TOUR THROUGH 

persons were confined in each other's houses*, 
as chance threw them together. 

How striking is the contrast here with 
the gardens of plenty we had so recently 
left ! In the one place, Nature appears in 
all her charms, shedding her riches around, 
and you recline in the lap of luxury ; while, 
in the other, cheerless winter cramps her 
bounteous heart, and, with dreadful severity, 
forbids her kind benevolence to man. 

There are, however, many places which, 
during the summer season, are extremely 
pleasant; and every year produces new plant- 
ations, and a fresh display of the taste and 
industry of the owners. Foremost among 
these^ ranks the estate of Colonel Skinner, ' 
many years Commandant of the island. 
The habitation is in the cottage style ; the 
avenues and general plan of the grounds 
have heightened the work of nature to an 



THE ATLANTIC. 93 

effect, in picturesque beauty and sweetness of 
landscape, hardly to be surpassed in any 
clime or country. 

At a happy distance below the lawn, is 
a clear and beautiful lake, two miles in cir- 
cumference, of an oval form, abounding 
with excellent fish. In this mirror you may 
often see reflected the striking scenery of 
the opposite shore. A sublime range of 
mountainous land closes round, through 
the outlets of which you glance on the ex- 
tent of ocean, and contemplate numerous 
vessels engaged in the trade and interests of 
the settlement. 

The sportsman with his gun, has also 
space and covert here for his amusement. 
The black game is peculiarly fine, and the 
snipe is, perhaps, in greater perfection than 
in any other part. They are frequently 
killed from seven and a half to eight ounces 
g 3 



94 A TOUR THROUGH 

in weight, and they have been shot as heavy 
as nine. 

Government have always been anxious, 
though hitherto without success, to establish 
a friendly intercourse with the native In- 
dians ; and it is to be feared that the unau- 
thorized system of terror exercised towards 
them by our first settlers here, and which 
drove them into the very heart of the coun- 
try, amidst almost impervious woods, has 
for ever cut off the hope of an understanding 
between us ; for whenever a party of them 
have been surprised or seen, they have pre- 
cipitately fled, and hidden themselves in the 
mazes of a neighbouring forest. Some few 
years since, four or five of them were dis- 
covered in a wigwam, by persons who were 
on the search for them, from an out-port ; 
the alarm was suddenly given, and they all 
escaped but one elderly woman, in whose 
withered limbs the brisk blood of activity 



THE ATLANTIC. 95 

had long ceased to flow, and she became 
their gloomy, sullen prisoner. She was 
almost naked j of a reddish complexion, 
short stature, harsh features, and straight, 
long, black hair. Her language is repre- 
sented to have been incoherent, and unlike 
anv human tone : no articulation could be 
ascertained, nor distinct sound remembered ; 
yet on her being brought round to St. 
John's, she soon discovered a preference for 
persons. She would go out and meet those 
who had been kind to her, clap her hands, 
look pleased, and mumble a something 
which was naturally supposed to intend wel- 
come. On being brought into a ball-room, 
she seemed, for a few moments, petrified ; 
first the music, and then the dancing and 
dresses, engaged her delighted attention, 
when, by every sign and token, she de- 
monstrated .her joy and surprise. The 
greatest kindness and feeling was shewn the 
poor savage, who, at last, became, appa- 
g 4 



$6 A TOUR THROUGH 

rently, reconciled and contented. The go- 
vernment, supposing that it would be good 
policy to send her back in this temper, 
loaded her with presents of beads and orna-r 
rnents of her own choosing, and for which 
she evinced a strong predilection, and, by- 
signs, endeavoured to tell her all her friends, 
and, in short, all their tribe, would be 
equally caressed, and experience the same 
civility, if they would place confidence, and 
come amongst the Europeans. Their trouble 
was, however, unavailing ; the poor crea- 
ture died on board the vessel that was 
conveying her to the harbour nearest the 
spot whence she had been taken, and all 
endeavours to obtain another have hitherto 
been unsuccessful. Her absence, perhaps, 
increased their dread and apprehensions of 
our barbarity and hatred towards them : in- 
deed they have too much reason to dread 
the very sight of a stranger. A man be- 
longing to a fishing-vessel employed in an 



THE ATLANTIC. 97 

out-harbour, was, the other day, brought 
before the magistrates at St. John's, ac- 
cused of having fired at a party of these 
poor Indians, with an intent to destroy 
them; to which this far greater savage than 
they, said, "Yes, I have done so; they ran 
away on seeing me, and I thought there was 
no harm in shooting a wild savage. 5 ' He 
was, of course, reprimanded and admo- 
nished, and exhibited signs of fear and trem- 
bling on being assured, that, had he been un- 
fortunate enough to have killed any one of 
them, his own life would most certainly 
have been forfeited to the murder. The ne- 
cessary directions have, of course, been 
given to prevent the recurrence of a practice 
so disgraceful to human nature, as well as 
a conduct so contrary to the views and inten- 
tions of Government. 

Measures are, and have been taken, to 
render the harbour more defensible, in the 



98 A TOUR THROUGH 

absence of the squadron, which usually 
weighs on the 25th October, or as soon 
after as the wind will permit, for England, 
during the winter. In the interim of the 
absence of the Admiral, who always goes 
out, and returns with 4 his squadron, the 
power and authority devolves on Major- ge- 
neral Moore, who commands the military 
on the island, viz. the Nova Scotia Regi- 
ment of Fencibles, with detachments of the 
Royal Artillery, Engineers, and Artificers 
of Great Britain. 

There is, perhaps, no other country, 
that, in so short a space of time, experi- 
ences, in an equal degree, the extremes of 
heat and cold : a difference of forty degrees 
in the thermometer has been often observed 
in the course of a few hours. Nothing is 
more common, at the summer season, than, 
in the morning, to be oppressed with sultry 
heat, and gladly seek the " mid- wood 

4 



THE ATLANTIC. 99 

shade," and in the keen evening of the 
same day to feel the necessity of artificial 
warmth. These sudden changes, how- 
ever, do not appear at all to affect the health 
of the settlers, who are remarkably robust 
and hearty. 

From the first discovery of the island, the 
most fragrant and beautiful wild roses have 
been observed here; as, likewise, a re- 
markable production called the pitcher- 
plant, which I believe to be peculiar to 
the island. Its leaves are formed m the 
shape of a cup, and are always full of 
water ; its flower is of a pretty and delicate 
yellow, of the texture of fibrous silk. Im- 
mense quantities of red berries, called 
cranberries, are found in the woods here ; 
they make delicious tarts, and are much 
esteemed in England : they are here pur- 
chasable at thirteen pence halfpenny per 
gallon, but pay a certain duty per gal- 



ICC A TOUR THR0U6H 

Ion to the customs at home, and require 
care and trouble to preserve them for the 
voyage. 

The town of St. John's has little to re- 
commend it ; in consequence of being situated 
on the water's edge, it is extremely dirty. 
The houses are all built of wood, with 
which the island abounds ; they are low 
and inconvenient, and, from the narrowness 
of the streets, and the annoyance of rats, 
barely habitable. Children of all ages are 
dragging fish about the streets ; and another 
nuisance is the continual yelping of dogs, 
with which the place swarms : their owners 
having no use for them, except in the win- 
ter, they drive them from their home the 
other part of the year, and they live about 
the streets upon the offals of fish. 

The town forms one line, a mile in 
length,, in which the smell of fish, and the 



THE ATLANTIC. 101 

stink of seal oil, is inconceivably disgusting. 
A little higher, on the site of a hill, are 
some pleasant houses which command the 
harbour and shipping, and breathe a purer 
air, though occasionally tainted when the 
breeze crosses the stages on which are laid 
tens of thousands of fish, to dry for exporta- 
tion. These, however, are evils, or rather 
inconveniences, of necessity, to which, 
when we contrast the intrinsic value of the 
place, and the service it renders our beloved 
country, we easily submit, overcome the little 
prejudices of situation, and are reconciled to 
the disadvantages of climate. 

The scarcity and extravagant price, as 
also the indifferent quality of the meat at 
St. John's, determined Admiral Holloway 
to send the Vestal on a cruize to the Western 
Islands, whence she could bring back bul- 
locks and vegetables for the ships under his 
orders, and at once contribute to the health 



103 A TOUR THROUGH 

and comfort of their crews. Accordingly, 
on Wednesday the 9th of August, we left 
St. John's, with the charm of a fine leading 
wind, and very soon lost sight of land. The 
fog was extremely heavy, and, as usual, 
when westerly winds are prevalent, we car- 
ried it a vast distance, upwards of three 
hundred miles ! Nothing could equal our 
rate of running. A moderate breeze and a 
flowing sail, took us, at periods, thirteen 
knots, or miles, an hour, and we crossed 
the almost immeasurable waters of the At- 
lantic, without reducing a sail, ©r experi- 
encing any of those casualties that are inci- 
dental to a voyage. 

On tiie sixth day we made the island of 
Corvo, and early the following morning, 
the 1 6th, we anchored in Fay al Roads, 
having averaged seven knots and a half each 
hour since our departure from North A me-* 



THE ATLANTIC. 103 

rica — a passage seldom to be seen on the re- 
cords of navigation. 

As I landed at Fayal, a new region and 
climate ; a contrasted people, in language, 
costume, manners, and religion; a barren 
shore changed for the rich harvests of 
plenty ; vegetation flourishing ; the luxuries 
of the torrid zone without its oppressive 
heat ; in fact, one grand epitome of nature, 
all effected in so short a time, without any 
sacrifice or inconvenience, had the sem- 
blance of enchantment. It struck instantly 
to my heart, and subdued resistance. 

When the abundance, beauty, and rich- 
ness of these islands are considered, how na- 
tural is it to lament, they are not in the 
occupation of a people more calculated to 
improve and enjoy them ! But idleness and 
corruption are in their heart's core, and 
what can be hoped from them ? It is too 



104 A TOUK. THROUGH 

clearly visible in all their ranks, and in all 
their dealings ; even those who come off to 
sell their little stock on board, endeavour, 
by every method, to cheat and impose ; and 
these wretches, who would not scruple to 
practise any trick for gain, will not take 
their smallest coin, which is less than our 
farthing, if it have not a cross on it ; not 
from any prohibition of authority to this 
effect ; but from the intensity of their con- 
science in religion. The Consul told us, we 
had no idea, how much they raised the 
price of every thing on a ship's arrival, 
which seemed incredible to us, when w« 
could get a hundred fine cucumbers for a 
pisturine, which is no more than one shil- 
ling sterling ; a large basket of fine apricots, 
and a heap of eggs, for the same sum ; poul- 
try at the rate of nineteen pence a couple, 
and vegetables of all kinds for a mere trifle. 



THE ATLANTIC. 1 65 

This island grows a considerable quantity 
of corn, and supplies the necessities of its 
neighbour Pico, whence, as I have before 
stated i they receive almost all the grapes, 
from which they make their wine. Their 
Passado, or Fayat Malmsey, is very rich 
and pleasant j and is made in the following 
manner : they cull the choicest grapes df 
the vineyard ; placing them in the sun, on 
lava-stones, turning them every twelve 
hours for a fortnight. When thcv ate 
pressed, the juice is extremely rich and 
glutinous, and is fined by the best French 
bfandy, w^hich gives it so fine a gout, that 
a connoisseur has mistaken it for the best 
Madeira Malmsey : there is, however, a 
difference, in the price, of n/. $s. in the 
quarter-cask, the Passado being only thirty 
dollars a quarter-cask. 

In the evening, we walked half a mile 
from the town to see a valley of remarkable 

H 



I06 A TOUR THROUGH 

beauty. It is the finest prospect, in minia- 
ture, imaginable. The slopes are covered with 
the varied shades of vegetation ; the vine, 
the orange, lemon, and coffee tree; the 
banana and tobacco plant springing out in 
wild abundance. From a dark cleft on the 
western side, is a pleasing fall of water, 
which much increases in the rainy season, 
when it rushes down the valley, and dis- 
charges itself into the wide bosom of the 
Atlantic, which lies open on the eastern 
side. 

As we passed along, we saw the poor 
peasants employed in making baskets and 
mats, for which the island is famous ; vast 
quantities are exported, but, although of 
peculiar beauty and excellence, they are so 
cheap, that it affords them but a precarious 
subsistence. A large, handsome mat, re- 
sembling the India kind, measuring twenty 
feet by fifteen, was purchased by an 



THE ATLANTIC. IO7 

officer on board, for thirty- two shillings, 
which is at least one third more than they 
would have charged a native; indeed, the 
value of money in all the Azores is matter 
of surprise and astonishment to every Eng- 
lishman that visits them. 

There is no manifest difference in the 
town, which is also called Fayal, from the 
Ponta del Gado. It contains several con- 
vents, as indeed do all the places of any 
consideration in these islands ; but we found 
the fair sisterhood of much lower rank and 
manners, and wanting in those refinements, 
that so elegantly characterized the conduct 
of our- secluded friends of St. Michael's, 
At one convent here, they were not allowed 
even to see any company, owing-, as we 
understood, to an elopement which had 
very recently taken place. A dashing son 
of Neptune, commanding a British sloop 
of war, that touched at the island for re- 



H 3 



A TOUR THROUGH 



freshmcnts, saw, with a compassion, alas ! 
too tender, the lovely Senhora. The ena- 
moured hero, by a seductive sympathy in 
her welfare and happiness, secured a heart, 
till now, perhaps, a stranger to the nobk 
sentiment of gratitude, and soon persuaded 
her that almighty love was sufficient inter- 
cession in heaven, for violating her oaths 
and promises of vestal purity and everlasting 
faith. Her willing ear gained, he soon se- 
cured his conquest ; a daring leap from her 
window quickly brought her to his opened 
arms, and they reached their boat, and af- 
terwards the ship, without interruption or 
impediment. The next morning the whole 
convent was in confusion ; formal repre- 
sentations were made to the church ; this 
unfortunate victim to the errors of education, 
was excommunicated and anathematized by 
those, who, perhaps, were, in some mea- 
sure, instrumental to her becoming the slave 
of passion, and who ought rather to have 



THE ATLANTIC. I©9 

atoned for the offence, and implored her 
salvation. 

The unhappy predilection for intrigue, 
which existed in this convent, was, how- 
ever, yet more strongly to be proved. A 
few weeks afterwards, on the morning of 
our arrival, a holy monk had been caught 
in the embraces of a nun, by the enraged 
abbess, and it appeared the guilty intercourse 
had been carried on for some time. He was 
immediately arrested and thrown into prison, 
to wait the decree of the Bishop of Tercera, 
and it was supposed the frail fair one would 
he shut out from every intercourse, and 
consigned to everlasting solitude. The Bi- 
shop has, most probably, disgraced the con- 
vent, while the life of the fallen priest is at 
the mercy of his absolute will. These ac^ 
counts could have but one effect on all un- 
prejudiced minds and when we understood 
Qyery stranger Si an.d especially officers, wcr<s 



I IO 



A TOUR THROUGH 



now to be watched with the jealous eye of 
suspicion, we felt little inclination, from 
the shortness of our intended stay, to over- 
come their scruples, and court their confi- 
dence. 

On the beach, and fronting the sea, is a 
fine building, formerly a college for Jesuits, 
whose name it, to this day, bears. This 
numerous and formidable body prevailed 
very much in these islands, and had many 
public seminaries previous to the memorable 
conspiracy in 1758, when they were ba- 
nished the Portuguese dominions, for the 
active and interested part they took in the 
politics of that time. 

This island is famous, as the refuge of 
many shipwrecked persons ; amongst 
others, I believe, Inglefield was saved here: 
and a few days previous to our arrival, the 
wrecked crew of an American vessel had 



THE ATLANTIC. Ill 

first made this shore. Every occasion of 
this sort is, of course, seized by the church, 
and used to fan the superstitious flame of its 
deluded votaries. 

This is, I am told, the only island of 
the Azores that has not a crater now burning 
on it, though it bears irrefragable marks of 
the ravages that have thus been made. 
From this was first observed the volcano 
at St. George's island, distant about ten 
leagues. The eruption happened on the ist 
of May 1808. It appears, by the account 
of a person who witnessed it, to have been 
attended with horrid noises, and vast co- 
lumns of dense smoke. The unhappy, pa- 
nic-struck inhabitants fell on their trembling 
knees, and poured forth earnest prayers 
for their deliverance. It soon broke into thq 
fertile pastures, and formed a crater twenty- 
four acres in circumference, covering the 
earth four feet deep in cinders, and dan*? 
B 4 



11% A JOUR THROUGH 

gerous of approach ; it continued to in- 
crease, and a smaller crater broke out in ano- 
ther part. The distance of these craters 
from the sea was about four miles, at an 
elevation of three thousand five hundred feet. 
The lava bursting out, inundated and swept 
away the town of Ursulina, destroyed 
houses and cattle, and blasted the whole 
face of vegetation for miles round about. It, 
as usual, gave timely notice of its awful ap- 
proach, and the people fled; but some of 
them, in endeavouring to save part of their 
effects, delayed too long, and were dread- 
fully scalded, their skin and flesh being 
torn off, without injury to. their apparel, and 
it was supposed that sixty unhappy persons 
suffered in this melancholy way, with nu- 
merous cattle, flocks, &c. — How transient 
are the possessions, as well as the life of 
man ! This, island, a fevy hours before, 
was rich and fruitful, and yielded abun- 
dance to those who dwelt on it ; but, by a 



THE ATLANTIC. I 1 3 

terrible convulsion of Nature, it is suddenly 
laid waste, and becomes the picture of 
mournful desolation ! The poor inhabitants 
were, yesterday, in possession of a cot, a 
garden, and, at least, the comforts, if not 
what they might consider the luxuries, of 
life; hut now, with their wives, and chil- 
dren too, reduced to beggary and despair j 
some of whom are, perchance, amongst 
those, who, in the vain attempt to save a 
little from the general wreck? to support 
the few remaining years of an aged parent, 
paid the dear forfeit of their lives ; while 
the unhappy family, driven from their little 
paradise, are doomed to drink the bitter cup 
of misery; and many, who had from their 
childhood lived in affluence, were now des- 
tined to earn their daily bread by the sweat 
of their brow. The poor creatures hurried 
to Fayal, and entreated laborious employ- 
ment for subsistence. — O happy, happy 
Britain ! If thou art not surrounded with 



114 A TOUR THROUGH 

the voluptuous produce of warmer climes, 
thou art no less a stranger to their attendant 
calamities, and standest, alone, the favoured 
Isle. While the jarring interests of the world 
are disputing for the palm of superiority, 
thy peasant lives in his peaceful cottage, 
where neither the ravages of war, nor the 
dread shock of contending nature, intrudes 
to embitter his healthful draught of life ! 

In the evening of the next day, the 17th, 
we weighed, with a favouring breeze, and 
passed along the shore of majestic Pico, 
commanding a view, at the same time, of 
five of the islands, to Tercera, and, after a 
night of sweet and refreshing sleep, an- 
chored in the port of Angra, the capital 
town. This island is equal, in square 
miles, to St. Michael's, and forms a beau- 
tiful picture, but bears no comparison in 
other respects ; yet, from its being chosen 
as the residence of the Governor and Cap- 



THE ATLANTIC. I 1 5 

tain-general, and being also the see of the 
Bishop, it seems to have formerly ranked 
as the most important of the Azores. The 
port is well sheltered from most winds, ex- 
cepting those from south to east and by 
north ; but, when blowing hard from these 
points, you cannot put to sea. A heavy 
swell, which occasions considerable risk in 
anchoring there, is very frequent. These 
disadvantages, and the extreme jealousy of 
the government towards strangers, whom 
they will detain on the slightest pretence, 
and lay an embargo on their vessels during 
pleasure; dishearten the merchant; preju- 
dice the trade, and, by retarding the inter- 
course, that for the welfare of both should 
be unreserved, materially injure the interests 
of the island, and the revenue. — How 
wretched is this system of polity ! In our 
flourishing kingdom, the law encourages 
commerce and protects the merchant ; but 
here, their jealous and suspicious nature sa- 



Ij6 A TOUR THROUGH 

crificcs every public and private interest, to 
arbitrary will, or unfounded apprehen- 
sion. 

The town of Angra, as are all the houses 
of the Azores, is built of lava-stone, which 
is of a slate colour, and has a handsome ef* 
fectj and it is but fair to add, that every 
thing wears a much better appearance in it t 
than in any other pf the Portuguese towns, 
we had visited ; and the order of authority 
appears to he carried on with something like 
precision and propriety. The streets are 
wide and clean ; the inhabitants look more 
healthy j and the troops, although pru> 
cipally composed of the vagabonds from the 
other islands, by the lash of severity, and 
the terror of punishment, are kept one re«? 
move from rabble. This is the utmost that 
I can, faithfully, say in their favour. It is. 
sincerely to be hoped that their countrymen, 
who compose Marshal _J3eres ford's army in 



THE ATLANTIC* II? 

Portugal, are very much more effective, and 
that the trouble he is reported to have taken* 
with his persevering labours and skilful re- 
gulations, have inculcated those noble prin* 
ciples of British discipline, which form the 
basis of success, and can alone be opposed to 
the consummate talent and brilliant achieve- 
ments of Bonaparte and his armies. 

I accompanied Captain Graham to the 
head quarters of the Captain and Governor- 
general, a member of the Court, and a 
Privy Counsellor, an elegant, polite, and 
well-bred man, possessing an infinity of 
.compliment without meaning, and assu- 
rances of friendship without sincerity. His 
palace, his suite, his whole appearance, had 
an air of dignity and fashion. An irre- 
sistible pleasure was excited by his manner 
of offering his heart and his house, although 
fully aware that it w r as merely their " ma- 
nkre de parler," and in no way intended for 



I 1 3 A TOUR THROUGH 

acceptance. As it was settled that we 
should sail the same evening for St. Mi- 
chael's, I could not possibly spare an hour 
to visit the cathedral ; neither did I meet 
any person that could supply interesting 
particulars concerning it. I understood it 
to be decorated in their usual style, which 
gave it, in common with their other 
churches, the appearance of an opera-house, 
or of any thing but a place of worship. 
Each man plays his part, and, by a system 
of pomp and pageantry, the vulgar mind is 
kept in idolatry and obedience. — What emi- 
nent advantages must result from a reforma- 
tion ! How fair would then become the 
aspect of the nation ! By shaking off the 
trammels of the Popish church, the ac- 
knowledged genius and talent of these 
people would be left to the free exercise 
of its own powers. The bright star of lite- 
rature would again shine amongst them ; 
their history would be continued j their 



THE ATLANTIC, I 1 9 

travels prosecuted ; their scene of action en- 
larged, and their native spirit improved ; iu 
fine, it would be the first grand step to the 
enviable rank of an independent nation. 

As the sun sank into the glowing bosom 
of the west, our sails were filled with a 
sweet and gentle breeze, which wafted the 
proud vessel o'er the willing deep. But 
when Nature slept, the young Zephyrus 
stole to the fond embraces of his love, and 
lay enamoured in her beauteous arms, tili 
the blushing Morn came to chide his le- 
thargy ; then, rising from his rosy bed, 
he fanned the silent deep, and spread our 
wanton sails, which carried us by the even- 
ing in sight of the intended port, and, early 
the next day, the 20th, we again cast an- 
chor in the roadstead of the Ponta del Gado. 
After our visits to two strange islands, we 
here seemed to recognize every striking 
point. White flags were thrown out in 



120 A TOUR THROUGH 

Jdnd token of our welcome to the convents j 
and our hospitable friend the Consul, Mr. 
Reid, was early afloat, anxious* as he al- 
ways is, to promote the welfare of the ser- 
vice, and, at the same time, contribute to 
the comfort and happiness of those engaged 
in it. 

As soon as we landed, we hastened to 
offer the incense of our constancy and 
friendship at the convents, and gave the in- 
quiring minds and hearts of our favourites, 
the narration of our voyage, into all the 
circumstances of which they entered with 
a sympathy and kindness that could alone 
emanate from a feeling mind. They were 
particularly pleased to learn how pros- 
perously we had returned to the island ; for 
it proved, they said, that their prayers had 
been accepted as they wished, by the great 
Disposer of events, in heaven. That w r e 
should have been to another part of the 



1the Atlantic. 



121 



habitable World so many, many leagues dis- 
tant, through such vast and immeasurable 
waters, and be so soon returned, filled 
them with sensations of wonder ; and they 
looked at each other in mute surprise. 
There is something peculiarly interesting in 
many of these ladies ; their dignity of man- 
ner and modesty of deportment, impose un- 
feigned respect in their presence ; and this is 
softened by the gentleness of their disposi- 
tion, and the mild tenderness manifested in 
all their inquiries. Several of them were 
presented with a " petit gage d'amitie, from 
America," in token of their living ih the 
remembrance at any distance of time or 
place : no touch of art could reach the 
thankful smile that adorned the fine coun- 
tenance, which then became the faithful 
mirror of a heart melting with gratitude. 

The Lady Abbess of the convent of St. 
Andrew received us herself, which is a dis- 

i 



l%% A TOUR THROUGH 

tinguished compliment, to congratulate us 
qn our pleasant voyage, and welcome our 
return ; adding, with bencvqlent politeness, 
the pleasure and estimation the visits of the 
officers of the Vestal would be held in by 
herself, and the other ladies of the convent. 
Fruits and sweetmeats of their own peculiar 
care, were given us at the grate. They said 
it was the happiest day they had known for 
a long time ; and, on our taking leave* 
mutual promises were given of frequent 
visits during our stay, and solemn assu- 
rances of never-fading friendship. 

Our obliging frieiid, the Consul, had 
prepared a large cavalcade of horses, mules* 
and asses, to carry a party of us to his beau- 
tiful country-seat, which is situated on a 
fine eminence about three miles from the 
town. It would require a comic talent to 
describe our set-out, which made the most 
grotesque and ludicrous appearance. The 



THE ATLANTIC. I £3 

youngsters, in high spirits and fun, were 
riding their jacks in every figure and form, 
some falling off, others falling on and over, 
and others again with their faces towards the 
tail, altogether producing the most ridi- 
culous, motley group, to the infinite 
amusement of the natives, who came run- 
ning to their doors and windows to see the 
frolick. This happiness was general ; the in* 
dulgence of Captain G. to all, and the 
lowest ranks of his people, is proverbial 
wherever his ship has been ; and you saw 
the sailor, who, an hour before, was " rock- 
ing on the high and giddy mast/ 5 now roll- 
ing under the mule; that, to use his own 
term, " he could not keep aboard of." 

" Relax'd from toil, the sailors range the shore, 
Where famine, war, and storm are felt no more." 

On our arrival at the villa, called Bona 
Vista from the extreme beauty of the view, 
We were surrounded by the choicest houn- 
1 % 



124 A TOUR THROUGH 

ties of nature. We walked in the vineyards 
of plenty; the rich fruit weighed down the 
tender branches of the vine ; the varied 
melon seemed to tempt the appetite ; while 
the mind contemplated the magnificent 
scenery before it. 

The distant towers of the Ponta del Gado 
rose in noble grandeur at the extremity of 
the valley, the face of which was heighten- 
ed by the diversity and richness of its fo- 
liage. The neat cottage and pleasant village 
produced a happiness of effect, that the 
dullest imagination must enjoy. If the 
harmony of such a scene could be increased, 
it was by the prospect of our element, and 
our triumphant frigate at anchor. Her gay 
streamer floated on the wave ; she looked 
the model of accomplished art, and bore a 
competition with the imagery that delighted 
us. Some of the most agreeable hours of 
my life were passed at this beautiful pkce t 



THE ATLANTIC. 12$ 

where we received the honest welcome of 
English hospitality ; every wish was antici- 
pated, every desire gratified j " we wan- 
dered in gardens of fragrance, and slept in 
the fortress of security." 

We were happy to find Doctor Stanton 
returned from his researches at the vale of 
Fournas, and that he had succeeded to his 
utmost wishes in analyzing its waters, which 
had confirmed him in the opinion he had 
formed of their medicinal efficacy, and that 
they only required to be selected with skill, 
and applied with prudence, to be unrivalled 
in their healing powers, and efficient in the 
most desperate case$. He is making cu- 
rious selections, and has now in his pos- 
session some beautiful specimens of sulphur, 
iron, &c. &c. with the rarest production 
of the coral-tree, that I ever recollect to 
have heard of. I cannot forbear expressing 
my thanks to this gentleman for his liberal 

1 3 



126 A TOUR THROUGH 

communications, and also for his politeness 
and hospitality to several of my shipmates, 
as well as to myself, which received a dou* 
ble value from the fascinating and enlight- 
ened society of his family. 

Two or three days after our arrival, we 
had a good incident and an admirable love- 
scene. An Englishman of forty-five chose 
to be desperately enamoured with a young 
Portuguese of twenty-two. The lady po- 
litely and fondly returned his passion, but 
there arose a terrible obstacle — their religion. 
In the golden moments of mutual love, how 
often we see, as in this instance, the heart 
running away with the head, and the cup of 
happiness dashed from the lips at the very 
moment of possession. John Bull was firm' 
to his protest j and even the soothing, soft, 
and persuasive eloquence of love, had not 
the power to betray him to apostacy> The 
fair pne > however, conquered her preju^ 



THE ATLANTIC. J2J 

dices, 44 blotted out each bright idea of the 
skies," quitted the priest for the heretic, 
and resolved to confess to him alone. Their 
happiness seemed now complete ; the day 
fixed, and approaching, when they found 
there was no clergyman of the Protestant 
faith in the island. — O propitious Venus ! 
The frigate came timeful in, with a Chap- 
lain on board ; their joy burst forth, and 
their intentions came to the ears of the 
Popish priests, who resolved, if possible, 
io avert, what they termed such a disgrace 
on their holy religion ; but intercession was 
made to Captain G» who ordered them a 
boat : they went off in triumph, and were 
married on board, in defiance of the impo- 
tent menaces of a host of indignant bigots. 

Our little excursions into the interior 
were very pleasant, No country can be more 
sublime, beautiful, or agreeable, On the 
one hand is a noble range of mountain , 
i 4 



128 A TOUR THROUGH 

bearing the awful cast of a late convulsion ; 
on the other, highly cultivated hills, rich 
pastures, ap$ valleys :pvered with fruitful 
and flourishing vines. To contemplate such 
scenes affords a rich repast to a mind at all 
disposed to feel their force, and consider 
them as a great testimony of the infinite 
goodness of our Creator. 

Some of my messmates, who were fre- 
quently engaged in shooting parties, and 
consequently traversed the greater part of the 
island, informed me of their having deter- 
mined to ascend a mountain of remarkable 
appearance, but which presented difficulties 
and dangers, that required perseverance^ 
strongly urged by curiosity, to surmount, 
They describe the ascent to have been des- 
perate, and only to be gained by a narrow 
winding path, the turnings of which were 
frequent and abrupt, and required to be tra- 
versed w T ith caution, as a false step might 



THE ATLANTIC. I 29 

probably have occasioned their destruction ; 
but, as they proceeded, their desire to reach 
the top increased. Their way was covered 
with small ashes, which became deeper 
and deeper, and increased the labour of 
the undertaking, which, however diffi- 
cult, a persevering spirit enabled them tg 
accomplish, when, to their surprise, they 
found themselves on the edge of a dreadful 
precipice, the side of which had been en- 
tirely consumed by fire, or rather hollowed 
out by a volcano, that, for want of alible 
matter, had subsided. On throwing a 
stone of some ppunds weight, it seemed to 
strike about two thirds down, and was ten 
seconds in falling. — What an example is 
this of the dreadful ravages of the burning 
element which consumes its way through 
such deep impediments ! and how is it pos- 
sible to reflect on the few recorded instances 
of its fatal effects, without feeling and ac- 
knowledging the infinite mercies of that 




1$0 A TOUR THROUGH 

great King of all kings, who, with so ter- 
rible an engine of punishment in his hand, 
forgives his rebellious and disobedient 
people I 

What may be termed the base of this pre* 
cipice was a considerable height above the 
rocks that were ranged at its foot, and were 
the boundary of the ocean. It was covered 
with vineyards, and the white cottage 
sweetly thrown in* as if by art, to relieve 
the foliage, and by Nature to rest her wea- 
ried limbs. Thousands of wild pigeons 
loosted in the hollow of the rocks. 

Our visits at the convents every time in- 
creased in interest, and scarcely a day passed, 
without our seeing the nuns 0 They said 5 
that, in such good and kind company, they 
felt unusual pleasure • and always repeated 
our welcome. No one could see such 
worth and beauty, and be insensible to their 



THE ATLANTIC. 13! 

power, or to the influence of courteous con- 
duct on the heart. But so innocent and dig- 
nified were their manners and behaviour, that 
if ever Plato's divine sentiment were found 
united with sensibility, it lived and breathed 
in the tender friendship these amiable crea- 
tures inspired us with. The immoral or 
corrupt thought would be instantly cor- 
rected by the virtue that was marked in their 
expressive countenance j still it was not the 
frowning inflexibility of prudery, but the 
conscious sense of what modesty should al- 
ways feel and manifest. That I may not 
be supposed to have -overdrawn the picture 
of chastity they presented to me, I relate the 
following naive and interesting circumstance, 
which gives a lively instance of the power 
of virtue, over what are too often considered 
the ungovernable passions. 

An Officer of rank and address, for 
two years that he had frequented the island. 



l$Z A TOUR THROUGH 

had been constant in his visits at the convent 
of St. Andrew. He admired, and was par- 
ticular in his attentions to the interesting 
Donna. Their acquaintance ripened into 
friendship, and their letters breathed the 
purest spirit of esteem. Nature, however, 
hardly acknowledges the restraint, and his 
kindness insensibly gained ascendancy over 
her mind, and entwined itself round her de- 
voted heart. I have frequently observed 
this charming woman ; if she saw him en- 
gaged in conversation, she seemed to regard 
him with peculiar interest, and dwelt with 
tenderness on his person ; but if she met his 
ardent look, she turned her modest face, and 
blushed : if he were absent, she inquired 
for him with emotion ; and once, on being 
told he was unwell, an unbidden tear fell 
on her pale cheek. That he regarded and 
esteemed her, could not be doubted ; but 
discretion forbade a more tender tie on the 
one hand, while honour rejected it on the 



THE ATLANTIC. I33 

other ; and this Officer was moral and dis- 
creet* It was, however, very evident he 
had found a way to a heart that religion had 
vainly attempted to seal for ever. Pity 
could not resist the tear ; it was an eloquent 
appeal to her feelings, and she resolved, at 
a proper time, to acquaint the unconscious 
friend of what she had witnessed. She did 
so, and he instantly felt a conviction of the 
necessity of being more the friend, than the 
lover, of the affectionate Donna. In his 
next letter, after thanking her for her kind 
solicitude for his health, he took occasion to 
observe, that he hoped that the endearing 
friendship, which had so long existed be- 
tween them, and had promised to be a 
source of pleasing reflection to both, could 
not be embittered by the possibility of its 
occasioning her sorrow at the prohibition she 
was under, and a consequent repentance of 
the sacred vows she had made ; that such a 
misfortune would be the greatest affliction 



134 A TOUR THROUGH 

to him, and would cast a dreadful gloom on 
the years, he hoped she would yet pass in 
peace and happiness in the convent. She 
nobly replied, that so far were the vows 
she had made, or her confinement to the 
convent, a cause of regret or uneasiness to 
her, that since her friendship with him, and 
attachment to his person, she had contem- 
plated them in a soothing spirit, before un- 
known to her; for that she considered 
them as the bond and security of her fide- 
lity to him, inasmuch as they put it out of 
her power to be inconstant in the esteem 
and tenderness she bore him. 

Our equipage, at the nocturnal return frorrf 
Bona Vista,, exhibited a most ludicrous ap- 
pearance, each mounted on his ambling 
jack, and attended by the driver, in the 
comical costume of the peasantry, carrying 
a torch, which, as we passed through some 
narrow roads, enclosed by walls of lava* 



THE ATLANTIC. 13$ 

stone, and their repeated whistles to give no- 
tice of approach, called to our remembrance 
Santerre's description of banditti, and never 
failed to afford amusement. 

One very still, dark night, as we jogged 
along, we were told nearly as follows : 
'* It was the custom for the anniversary 
of St. Sebastian to be observed by the Ca- 
tholics with every respect and decorum. "A 
grand procession took place, and a reli- 
gieux, armed cap-a-pee, as St. George, and 
mounted on a fiery steed, gave a peculiar 
dignity to the solemn scene ; but at the last 
festival, the holy representative of St* 
George having sacrificed with too much 
zeal at the shrine of the rosy god, and being 
wrapt in Bacchanalian ecstacy, was unequal 
to shed lustre on the return from the church, 
whither they went to pray for grace, to be 
*|cept in continence and sobriety; for, on 
crossing a kennel in the street, the gay 

3 



136 A TOUR THROUGH 

charger, by an unlucky display of effect, 
threw the unwary priest with his face in 
the gutter, where, like the ass in the fable, 
he shewed his ears, and opened the eyes of 
the procession to the folly of such affecta* 
tion." 



We passed nearly a fortnight in this island 
of plenty, to which any lover of the beau- 
ties of nature may retire and live on a mo- 
derate fortune, in every luxury, while, 
with the same income, in almost any other 
place, he could hardly procure the neces- 
saries of life, as may be seen by the following 
price current : 



Beef . 
A turkey 
A goose 
A fowl 
A duck 



o 2 per pound. 
3 © 

3 0 
o 6 

o 10 



THE ATLANTIC. 1 

Fruit and vegetables grow in abundance in 
the garden attached to a house at a moderate 
rental. 

Our ship received several very fine oxen, 
with a large supply of fruit and vege- 
tables ; and being perfectly prepared for sea, 
on the evening of the first of September, we 
went to say adieu, and au revoir, to our 
fair favourites at the convents. It was a 
scene that placed the goodness of heart, sin- 
cerity, and gratitude of these amiable crea- 
tures, in a striking and convincing light : 
but I will not dwell here ; Good bye, has 
a spell in it, and I am sure there is not a 
generous heart beating, that has not ac- 
knowledged its influence. Having assured 
them of our lasting remembrance and 
friendship, and the hope we had of seeing 
them next year, we thanked our kind 
Consul for his hospitality; and, having 
taken leave of his and Dr. Stanton's family, 

K 



Ij8 A TOUR THROUGH 

went da board, and early next morning, the 
2d, we weighed, and stood for the northern 
part of America ; but it was not so early but 
the white flag of peace and prosperity was 
flying at the convent. 

We passed in sight of several of tfie 
Azores ; and our return was pleasant, al- 
though attended with adverse winds and 
some strong breezes, which formed a con- 
trast to the quickness of our passage the 
other way. 

On the nth, being in lat. 45 0 26% 
and having experienced a very considerable 
change of climate, we were surprised to see 
a turtle floating along, which on our taking 
on board, and weighing, we found up- 
wards of seventy-six pounds, and in high 
health. The sea was now for many hours 
covered w r ith sea- weed, drifted from the Gulf 
of Florida j and on taking a portion of it 



THE ATLANTIC. *I39 

out of the water, it presented some beautiful 
specimens. 

Nothing material or remarkable occurred 
till Saturday, the 1 6th, when, being in lat. 
46° 50% and having sounded on the Great 
Bank of Newfoundland, we saw three large 
islands of ice floating towards ifs. The 
largest drifted very near the ship, and ex- 
hibited a surprising appearance. It was of 
considerable circumference, of an oval form, 
and rose at each extreme in the form of a 
turret, which was white as alabaster, and 
sparkled with the utmost brilliancy, from 
the faint influence of the evening sun. The 
sea beat over the solid base on which these 
turrets were raised, and once striking des- 
perately against the elevation nearest the 
ship, knocked off its summit, which fell with 
awful aspect into the ocean. We fired a 
cannon-shot against the lower part, and 
though very close, the ball fell into the water, 
hardly leaving an impression of the blow, 
k % 



I40 A TOUR THROUGH 

We regarded this magnificent structure of 
nature with double interest, as it brought 
to memory the many instances on record, of 
their having been the salvation of several of 
our shipwrecked fellow-sailors, and by im- 
pulse, carefully observed it with a glass, 
to ascertain if anv traces of man were to be 
seen there. It is almost unnecessary to say, 
that, as it passed to windward, we felt the 
coldness of the air intense while it was 
abreast of ps, and that, as it became distant, 
the climate aioderated very sensibly. 

On the morning of the 19th, we spoke 
the Sibylle and Quebec frigates outside the 
harbour of St. John's, bound to Portugal and 
England with convoys from Newfoundland 5 
and in the evening of the same day we an- 
chored in the harbour, having been absent 
forty days. 

Notwithstanding our passage back was 
rather longer than we expected, the oxen 



TfcE ATLANTIC. 141 

were well-conditioned ; and the fruit, which 
we had carefully packed in bran, as also our 
eggs, were in excellent preservation. Wc 
found every body round their fires, which 
indeed are necessary here at almost all periods 
of the year; whereas, at the Azores, they 
never think of making a chimney, even in 
any room in the house, except the kitchen. 
It was the busy part of the fall ; and as the 
time approached for the convoys to sail, all 
was bustle and activity in the trade. To 
visit the large warehouses entirely stored 
with fish and oil ; to see the numerous vessels, 
loading with these commodities for all quar- 
ters of the globe, and, at the same time, to 
recollect that such a vast bulk of dried food 
had, a few days before, been animated, ac- 
tive, and formed a million beautiful crea- 
tures, each seeking its sustenance, and 
obeying the instinct of nature, was a subject 
of interesting contemplation. These fish, 
when dried for exportation, sell here for 
K 3 



142 A TOUR THROUGH 

fourteen shillings a quintal, or hundred 
weight, and the merchant receives a pre- 
mium on their importation in England. 
Business is done here to a very considerable 
extent, and many large fortunes have been 
rapidly made by persons, or rather specu- 
lators, that have ventured out here, and, by 
perseverance and a strict attention, have 
succeeded beyond belief, and realized a 
prodigious capitaL There is also a very 
considerable benefit derived in a Newfound- 
land residence, there being no taxes nor rates 
of any sort, which press so heavily on the 
man of moderate income in other countries. 
Moreover, the Governor is invested with 
authority, from the King, to make certain 
grants of land, for well and correctly dis- 
posed persons to build on and improve, 
which becomes their individual property, 
and that of their heirs and successors, ac- 
cording to the nature or limitation of the 
grant 



THE ATLANTIC. I43 

A considerable number of beavers are to 
be found in the interior of the island ; and 
several officers hearing of a nest of them at 
a particular place, took a severe walk 
through woods and marshes, to witness, 
what I should certainly have been pleased 
with, could it have been effected with less 
toil — I mean the peculiar and curious inge- 
nuity of their houses. From the accounts 
given, it seems the teeth of these little ani- 
mals are their principal tools for work, and, 
from their length and sharpness, they are 
enabled to gnaw through the toughest wood 
as large as the human arm. These they 
place in compact order, and roof in with 
mud, clay, &c. the snuggest dwellings. 
From their amphibious nature, they usually 
build them in marshes. I have been fre* 
quently assured they are excellent eating. 
Admiral Holloway ate of one shot by Co- 
lonel Murray, and I heard him assert, it 
was equal in flavour to a leveret. Never* 
K 4 



144 A TOUR THROUGH 

theless, much as may be said for the scarce-? 
ness and novelty of the dish, from its appa- 
rent coarseness and strength, I could not 
be persuaded to overcome my prejudice, and 
I would as readily feast on one of the bears 
that are natives in the island. The silver- 
skinned fox abounds here, but the more 
esteemed black fur is very rarely to be met 
with, and sells for a high price. I had 
been told that the fine breed of dogs, fqr 
which Newfoundland is so eminent, had 
very much degenerated, and that none of 
the best blood were to be procured j but we 
found that, although this was, in some in- 
stances, the case, there are yet many of the 
best of this fine species of animal to be had, 
at a moderate sum. This station has ever 
been esteemed by the officers of the navy 
and marines, on account of the extreme 
kindness and hospitality of the inhabitants. 
They are continually forming pleasant 
parties, to make the time of a gloomy and 



THE ATLANTIC, 1 45 

uncomfortable climate pass easily along, 
and they certainly succeed. I never yet 
heard any one speak of their manifold atten- 
tions, but in terms of sincere thankfulness; 
and those who were not under the influence 
and magnetic powers of a fond wife, have 
left it with regret ; for accustomed as is the 
sailor's mind to change, variety, and new 
characters, his feeling heart soon imbibes 
attachment for those who, by their obliging 
attentions, soften the hardships of his pro- 
fession. Thus passed our days pleasantly 
along, and every preparation was making 
for the voyage of the men of war and their 
convoys to their destinations. 

About the 19th of October, His Majesty's 
ship the Jamaica returned from a cruize, 
and her officers corroborated the reports we 
had heard from merchant-vessels, that suc- 
cessively arrived, of the vast and unusual 
quantities qf ice on these parts of the ocean ; 



146 A TOUR THROUGH^ 

she having, a few leagues from the mouth 
of the harbour, passed a large body of it, 
extending, as near as they could calculate, 
thirty miles from east to west, which in* 
creased our apprehensions, that our voyage 
would be impeded by these formidable ob- 
structions. Nevertheless, on Sunday, the 
% 2d, His Excellency the Governor, having 
received the complimentary address of a 
deputation of the civil authority, and the 
salute of the troops under the command of 
Major-general Moore, embarked in his 
barge, attended by his suite. On his pass- 
ing the squadron, he was received as Ad- 
miral and Commander in Chief, by man- 
ning the yards of the several ships of war, 
and his arrival on board his own ship w 7 as 
announced by a general discharge of cannorv 
The following morning, convoy signals 
were hoisted, and every thing was bustle 
and activity in the merchant's house, the 
25th being settled for sailing. This being 



THE ATLANTIC. X 47 

the day of jubilee to all His Majesty *s sub- 
jects, the royal standard was hoisted on 
board the fleet, and royal salutes were fired 
by the shore batteries and ships. From 
adverse wind, however, it was the morning 
of the 26th, when the convoy weighed; 
the flag- ship, and her convoy, steering the 
course for Great Britain, and the Vestal 
and her convoy for Portugal. We had not 
been at sea many hours, before it came to 
blow very strong, and the bad progress of the 
convoy compelled us to have every sail 
furled. The gradual increase of the gale, 
with a heavy sea running, rendered it im- 
possible for us to keep them together ; and, 
off Portugal, the only one that had been in 
sight for the last two days, also separated 
from us. Having passed fourteen or fif- 
teen days in this severe weather, a sudden 
change was the more pleasant, and we sen- 
sibly felt the warmer latitude of the Portu- 
guese coast. We had chased many vessels, 



I48 A TOUR THROUGH 

in all the eager expectation of making a 
capture, and were as often disappointed, till 
the morning of the 15th of November, 
when we recaptured the brig Bellona, laden 
with fish-oil and seal- skin, from New- 
foundland, and, at noon, a fine ship, the 
Fortitude, laden with cotton and hides from 
Brasil. Such double success, two prizes 
in one day, after so many disappointments, 
seemed to presage future good, and as if 
the star of our better fortune was becoming 
lord of the ascendant. Confidence suc- 
ceeded to hope, and sanguine expectation to 
despondency. The horizon was nicely and 
repeatedly observed, and every strange sail 
presented itself to the warm imagination as 
a prize; but under all these circumstances of 
qui vive, we were astonished at the dawn 
of Sunday, the 19th, being in lat. 45° 40', 
long, io° 50', to find ourselves two miles 
to leeward of a French squadron, consisting 
of two heavy frigates, two corvettes, and 



THE ATLANTIC, 149 

an armed brig, deeply laden, going, as we 
supposed, to the relief of Guadaloupe. 
They passed within gun-shot of us, we 
with English colours flying, without firing. 
We closely reconnoitred, and kept com- 
pany with them for two hours. Cap- 
tain Graham, in the mean time, wrote to 
the Commanding Officers at the Tagus and 
Cadiz, dispatched our prizes with his 
letters to them, and made all sail for Eng- 
land, hoping, to use his own words, " to 
meet a force that would enable him to bring 
them to action. 3> Although our wishes, on 
this great point, were not realized, and each 
individual lamented their superiority of 
force, and consequent unmolested progress, 
our spirits were again revived by the capture 
of L/Intrepide French privateer, at twelve 
o'clock the same night. She proved to be 
a remarkably handsome vessel, pierced for 
twenty guns, mounting fourteen nine- 
pounders and four cohorns, quite new, 



I $0 A TOUR THROUGH 

well found, and a few days from Bayonne. 
The prisoners were, of course, taken out, 
and efficient persons sent on board of her. 
It is impossible to describe the contrasted 
feelings on such occasions : one man is 
flushed with joy and success ; the other, a 
captive, desponding and miserable ; yet the 
impression on the Frenchman is, rightly, 
considered of a powerful but transient na- 
ture. The first half-hour, he laments in 
all the bitterness of grief, the hardness of 
his fate, the loss of his fortune, his wife, 
his children ; he describes their charms, 
their virtues, and their melancholy despaif 
for his absence ; he sheds tears of sorrow, and 
begs you to sympathize in his woe. He sud- 
denly exclaims, " La fortune de la guerre 
sighs, laughs, talks politics, is bien con- 
tent in such good company, and no longer 
remembers his privations or difficulties. 



THE ATLANTIC. I5I 

Among the captures which this privateer- 
brig had made, was one extremely valuable, 
being laden with Spanish wool, and she, at 
dusk, was but three miles from the priva- 
teer. We felt every possible hope, that, at 
daylight, we should have been in sight of 
her, and the most judicious arrangement 
was made to accomplish our expectation ; 
but morning dawned to our disappointment, 
and our calculation of success faded quite 
away ; but it gave Captain Graham an op- 
portunity of manifesting his zeal for the 
service, by not pursuing a wild search, but 
keeping his anxious course towards Eng- 
land, with intelligence of the enemy's, move- 
ments, and proved how readily he could 
sacrifice his private interest to the public 
good. 

Our intention was to have touched at 
Lisbon in our homeward passage, but the 
tempestuousness of the weather disappointed 



1£2 A TOUR THROUGH 

my expectations in this respect. Perhaps 
my reader may not be entirely satisfied with 
such an excuse. I have, therefore, tran- 
scribed, with the most willing permission on 
the part of my publisher, the account of 
that city from the Travels of the ci-devant 
Due de Chatelet, in Portugal. The trans- 
lation has been elegantly made with more 
than usual accuracy, by the publisher him- 
self, who has transfused into his labours 
the full spirit of the original. 

Nothing can be more beautiful or majestic 
than the view of this port, of which a fine 
engraving is prefixed to the second volume 
of these Travels. It is defended by Fort 
Bugio, situated on an island at the mouth of 
the Tagus. The city, rising like an am- 
phitheatre, on the right bank of the river, 
exhibits a truly magnificent prospect. At 
the foot of the walls, the Tagus forms a 
bay, three leagues in width, which is an 



TH£ ATLANTIC. 1 53 

excellent roadstead for vessels of every de- 
scription. The entrance to the harbour 
does not, however, correspond with the 
beauty of the bay : the bar which is formed 
there renders the passage difficult for pilots 
not thoroughly acquainted with its shoals. 
Accordingly, all English ships are for- 
bidden to enter the port unless they have on 
board native pilots, who come to meet them 
and take charge of the helm. The pilot is 
paid by the captain, who must not refuse 
his services upon pain of fine. Several ac- 
cidents which befel ships attempting to 
enter without the assistance of these harbour 
pilots induced the British government to 
enact this law. 

-At the period of my arrival, Lisbon was 
in an agitation which I am incapable of 
describing. It was the eve of the cslebra* 
tion of the Queen's coronation. The 
people were running to and fro, singing 

L 



154 A TOUR THROUGH 

and dancing the foffa, a national dance, 
which is performed in couples to the sound 
of a guitar or any other instrument — a 
dance so licentious, that modesty must 
blush to witness, and dare not attempt to 
depict it. I passed through the crowd, and 
took lodgings in the English hotel, situated 
at Buenos Ayres, one of the seven hills of 
Lisbon j an agreeable spot, free from the 
stench which infects the city in summer, 
and the rain which inundates it in the 
winter. 

The square of Commerce * was chosen 
as the place best adapted to the ceremony of 
the coronation. It is large, and situated 

* This is also called the square of the Terriero do 
I?a$o, or Ground of the Palace/ It is six hundred and 
fifteen feet in length, and five hundred and fifty in 
breadth. Three of its sides are lined with buildings, 
and the fourth by the Tagus. These edifices are uni- 
form? but of mean architecture. — Editor, 



THE ATLANTIC. I55 

on the banks of the Tagus. The streets 
which run from it are broad and handsome, 
and have pavements, like those of London 9 
for foot-passengers. On reaching the side 
facing the river, you enter this square by 
passing under a triumphal arch of the Doric 
order, but of heavy architecture. Below 
the buildings which form the sides of the 
square runs a gallery, which would be very 
handsome if it were less ruinous. In the 
middle of the square is erected an equestrian 
statue of King Joseph I. with the face to- 
ward the river. At the foot of this statue 
the Marquis de Pombal had placed a bronze 
medallion of himself; the day preceding 
the coronation, it was removed by his ene- 
mies, to make room for the arms of the 
city. At the time of the inauguration of 
this monument, designed to commemorate 
the rebuilding of Lisbon, the King, under 
whose auspices it was erected, and, above 
all, the omnipotent minister who reigned 



1 56 A TOUR THROUGH 

in his stead, a medal was struck (in 1775) 
representing, on one side, the equestrian 
statue of Joseph L with this inscription : 
Magnanlmo Rest l aura ton : — and on the other, 
the city of Lisbon under the figure of a 
crowned female, surrounded by architects 
and warriors. Round this medallion are 
these words : Post fata resurgens. But 
both the monument and the medal convey 
but a -very unfavourable idea of the state of 
the fine arts in Portugal. 

The coronation of the Queen took place 
with great magnificence, amid the discharge 
of artillery and the acclamations of an im- 
mense concourse of people assembled, from 
all quarters, to witness the ceremony. The 
Queen alone seemed to take no share in the 
general joy, She was painfully affected. 
The principal nobles of the court had re- 
solved to instigate the people to demand of 
ber the hsad of the Marquis, de PombaL 



THE ATLANTIC. I57 

The Queen was informed of their intention j 
she was apprehensive of danger from re- 
fusal ; but though she disliked the states- 
man, she respected the friend of her father. 

I was likewise acquainted with these ma- 
chinations, and resolved to be a near spec- 
tator of the agitation which they were likely 
to occasion. I ran through the streets with 
a Frenchman, conversant in the Portuguese 
language, and mingled with the crowd. 
Nothing was heard in every quarter but the 
name of Pombal j the minds of the multi- 
tude began to be inflamed, a tumult was 
about to commence, when all at once ap- 
peared a patrole of horse headed by an 
officer, who, addressing the mob, forbade 
them, upon pain of the severest punishment, 
to mention the name of M. de PombaL 
The crowd soon dispersed ; the streets were 
jn an instant filled with horse and foot sol-, 
diers, and they were so attentive to the dis* 

L 3 



1$$ A TOUR THROUGH 

persion of all assemblages of people, the 
moment they began to form, that the popu- 
lace were obliged to relinquish their inten- 
tion. 

All the fidalgos * manifested the utmost 
astonishment and agitation. They were 
seen running to and fro, sending messages 
from the gallery where they were stationed, 
and darting, on the people, looks expres- 
sive of anger and impatience. Recourse 
had been prudently had to the precaution of 
dividing the populace, by means of barriers 
erected at intervals, so that the crowd was 
separated, and, in some measure, imprison* 
ed without perceiving it. A kind of mur- 

* By Jidalgos are, in general, understood the un- 
titled nobility. These fidalgos have a pension assigned 
them by the King from a capital of forty thousand 
crusades set apart for that purpose. A crusade is equal 
to three livres four sous French (25. lod. English). 
~—Note by the Author* 



THE ATLANTIC. I 59 

mur was nevertheless heard, and seven or 
eight voices cried: " Pombal, Pombal !" 
but they were instantly drowned by shouts 
of " Long live the Queen !" raised by the 
partizans of the Marquis. A great number 
of spectators had forced their way through 
the guards into the gallery ; the Queen or- 
dered them not to be disturbed. As it was 
impossible for carriages to approach, she 
was herself obliged to go through the crowd 
to reach hers. This was the most delight- 
ful moment of her life. Some threw them- 
selves at her feet, others kissed the skirts of 
her robe, and she was affected even to 
tears. 

The illuminations were brilliant j the 
ceremony was performed with equal tran-* 
quillity and pomp. At night the English 
nation gave a magnificent ball to the prin- 
cipal inhabitants of this city, no doubt, in 
testimony of its gratitude ; for it was that 
l 4 



160 a tour through 

nation, the real sovereign of Portugal, 
which had been crowned in the person of 
the Queen. Next day the people resumed 
the mourning which they had thrown off on 
the preceding day. Amidst the general joy 
occasioned by the fall of Pombal, an air of 
sadness universally prevailed, and the com- 
pany, on quitting the ball, hastened to tho 
churches* 

The greatest calamity that desolates this 
country is the earthquakes to which it is 
subject. The Tagus is frequently seen Co- 
vered with bituminous substances which 
issue from its bed, as well as from the hills 
of the city and its environs ; which shews 
that the soil, below the bed of the river, 
and the interior of those hills, contain a 
vast assemblage of sulphureous and saline 
particles, whose continual fermentation pro- 
duces explosions more or less considerable. 



THE ATLANTIC. *6l 

in proportion as these inflammable sub?t 
stances are more or less abundant. The 
earthquake, which, in 1755, destroyed the 
whole city of Lisbon, and the frightful 
traces of which are still to be seen, has ex- 
cited the curiosity of the most celebrated 
philosophers. The result of their observa- 
tions is an inexhaustible source of alarm for 
the unfortunate inhabitants. It seems to 
have been demonstrated, from the ravages 
produced by that calamity, particularly on 
the spot where the city is built, that the 
focus of the fermentation is situated exactly 
beneath its site. For near a thousand years 
its inhabitants have, from age to age, ex- 
perienced periodical earthquakes which 
have ruined and destroyed their city ; and 
in building it again, they may actually be 
considered to say : " Our children and 
grand-children shall be buried under the 
ruins ©f the edifices which we are erecting 



l6% A TOUk THROUGH 

upon the shattered relics of those which, 
overwhelmed our fathers*." 

Notwithstanding the salubrity of the cli- 
mate, the plague has often made dreadful 
havoc in Portugal. The two kings John I. 
and Edward I. died of it, one in 1433 arK * 
the other in 1437. Tne funeral oration de- 
livered on the death of the former monarch 
is the first of which Portuguese history 
makes mention* 

In winter the cold is sensibly felt in 
Portugal; nevertheless, in this country 
there are no fire-places except in the 

* The earthquakes are commonly felt at Lisbon in 
the month of November. On this subject we have the 
following interesting observation : When October and 
the beginning of November are dry, earthquakes are 
certain and almost always violent; when the rains are 
copious and set in early, there is either no earthquake^ 
or the shock is but very slight. — Editor* 



THE ATLANTIC, 163 

kitchens *. I have been assured that, for 
twenty-three years, the heat at Lisbon has 
not been so intense as that which I felt in 
the month of July 1777 : it was indeed so 
powerful as almost to deprive me of the 
faculty of breathing. I waited with im- 
patience for the return of night, to enjoy 
the pleasing coolness of the air, which 
would be still more agreeable and refreshing 
if the dirtiness of its inhabitants did not 
diminish its purity. As soon as it is dark, 
the streets are filled with filth, dead animals, 

* The inhabitants of Lisbon never warm themselves. 
Latterly a few persons have had fire-places made, but 
there are not more than, perhaps, thirty in the whole 
city. You do not even find, in apartments, those 
coal-pans, or copas, that are commonly used in Spain. 
Both. men and women keep at home, wrapped up in 
large cloaks of woollen stuff, which they wear abroad^ 
at the theatre, in the churches, and in company. They 
have this extraordinary prejudice, that the artificial heat 
of fire is dangerous to health ; as if cold and humidity 
were not still more pernicious.— Editor. 



164 A TOUR THROUGH 

and especially dogs, thousands of whose 
carcases strew the streets of Lisbon : but 
by eight in the morning, the power of the 
sun has consumed all those disgusting ob- 
jects, which otherwise would infect the 
city, and indubitably generate the plague. 

On the first of November 1755, the at- 
mosphere was pure and serene, with every 
appearance of a fine day, when, about half 
past nine in the morning, a terrible noisq 
was heard, and was immediately succeeded 
by a dreadful shock. The palaces, the 
churches, the houses, were reduced in a 
moment to a heap of ruins. It was caL 
culated, but only by guess, that about 
thirty thousand persons perished on that fatal 
day, for the government had not yet taken 
a census of the inhabitants of Lisbon. Had 
the earthquake happened on a working day, 
and an hour later, the destruction would 
have been much greater. The climate of 



THE ATLANTIC. 1 6/ 

Lisbon presenting a perpetual spring, alt 
the people make a practice of going into 
the country on holydays. The other days 
of the week, they are seen, at ten in the 
morning, repairing in crowds to the 
churches. Most of the persons, who pe- 
rished, were crushed by the roofs of those 
sacred edifices, to which they had fled, 
some from devotion, and others from fear. 
The flames, bursting from beneath the 
ruins, completed the destruction of almost 
every thing that had escaped the tremendous 
concussion *. Property, to an immense 

* It is certain, that the earthquake itself made less 
havoc than the conflagration and the robbers, who ap- 
peared in great numbers during this horrid catastrophe. 
All those, however, were hung that were found with 
gold, which exhibited any marks of fire, in their 
pockets. Not only the person who picked it up, but 
also the receiver, was suspended within a quarter of an 
hour before his own door or window. This extremely 
rigorous measure, it is true, cost many innocent people 
their lives, but it preserved the city from pi!ta§e.~-A 7 b/<? 
hj the Aathvr, 



I 



l66 A TOUR THROUGH 

amount, was consumed ; the sea rose to an 
extraordinary height, the vessels were dashed 
against each other, and the wind, which 
blew with great fury, increased the con- 
flagration. The old men, women, chil- 
dren, the sick, who were still in bed, were 
smothered, without the possibility of any 
effort being made for their relief : some pe- 
rished in the flames, and others were crushed 
by the fall of the floors, walls, and roofs. 
The robbers, mingling among the people, 
plundered, murdered, and heightened the 
terror of, the inhabitants, who fled in all 
directions, invoking the assistance of Hea- 
ven, and totally at a loss which way to go 
fpr safety. The streets, strewed with the 
dead, blocked up with fallen edifices, or 
impassable, on account of the flames, inter- 
cepted the fugitives. 

All the inhabitants, who were, at 
length, so fortunate as to escape, quitted 



THE ATLANTIC. 1 67 

the city, and repaired to the mountain. — Let 
us now follow M, de Pombal amidst this 
dreadful catastrophe, the most brilliant 
epoch of his life. Flying to all quarters of 
the city, he here afforded relief, and there 
imparted consolation. Wherever he ap- 
peared, his presence restored tranquillity, 
and dispelled fear. His activity succeeded 
in repairing those evils, for which there yet 
remained a remedy ; his severity restrained 
the excesses, which impunity would have 
encouraged. 

In the space of a week, his fertile mind 
produced two hundred and thirty ordi- 
nances: all the robbers, and disturbers of 
public order, who were taken in the fact, 
were immediately hanged. Through his 
indefatigable exertions, the dead bodies 
were very soon interred, and many were 
thrown into the sea in lime-sacks,. Sup- 
plies of provisions were procured, without 



A TOUR THROUGH^ 



loss of time, from the contiguous provinces. 
In a word, by his courage* his perse- 
verance, and his firmness* he prevented the 
people from abandoning a city, which ex* 
hibited nothing but ruins, and the image 
of despair. He spared no efforts to remove, 
as speedily as possible, the vestiges of so 
many calamities. He opened streets through 
the midst of the ruins. Every one looked 
upon him as the saviour of the citizens who 
had escaped this disaster. His carriage was, 
for several days, his cabinet, his bed, his 
only abode. Forty-eight hours elapsed, 
without his taking any nourishment, except 
a basin of broth, which his wife carried to 
him herself. 

Not a single individual of the royal fa- 
mily was hurt. The court that very day 
chanced to go to Belem and was on the 

* Belem is a large monastery, situated on the banks 
of the Tagus, at the \yestern extremity of the city. It 



THE ATLANTIC. 1 69 

way thither, at the moment of the shock. 
Had it not been for this fortunate accident, 
all the Princes, the King, Queen, and their 
retinue, would have perished beneath the 
ruins of the palace, which was totally de- 
molished. Madame de Pombal had not 
risen ; the wall at the head of her bed fell 



formerly contained one hundred and fifty monks j their 
number at present is but forty, and it possesses a re- 
venue of forty thousand crusades. At the time of the 
earthquake, only some parts of the choir were shaken 
and demolished : the nave sustained no injury. To 
the right of the choir, as you enter, is the tomb of the 
King Don Sebastian, who died in Africa, where he 
was making war upon the Moors. The Portuguese, 
who are simple and superstitious, assert, that it is not 
the body of that King which it contains, since he is 
not dead, and will some day return. Every one 
knows what numbers of impostors have attempted to 
pass themselves off for King Sebastian. As the Mar- 
quis de Pombal was not less powerful than the King, 
and his name was Sebastian, the Portuguese took oc- 
casion to say that their silly tradition was accomplished, 
^-Note hj the Author, 



I7O A TOUR THROUGH 

down behind the tapestry. Half dead with 
fright, she hastily rose ; and, notwithstand- 
ing her terror, retained sufficient presence 
of mind to place herself under the door-case 
of her chamber. Though every thing fell 
around her, she remained unhurt. She ran 
in quest of her children ; that part of the 
house in which they were, had received no 
damage, and she had the good fortune to 
save them all. She now began to be greatly 
alarmed on account of her husband, who 
had gone abroad early; and was soon in- 
formed that he was, already, engaged in 
affording relief to the unhappy sufferers : 
she resolved to go to him, to share his exer- 
tions and his dangers ; but her mules had 
been crushed to death, and her carriages 
broken in pieces. 

The court, being now without a habita- 
tion, lived for eight days in tents. It must 
be admitted that, or) this occasion, the royaj 



THE ATLANTIC. I7I 

family set the people an example of forti- 
tude and benevolence. The Queen ap- 
propriated a portion of her small allowance 
of provisions to the relief of the most dis- 
tressed objects. All the activity, and all 
the vigilance, of the minister, were not suf- 
ficient to prevent excesses during the first 
days. Enormities of every kind were com- 
mitted. The convents of all the orders, 
and of both sexes, had been burned ; the 
monks and the nuns, following the popu- 
lace, who fled to the mountains, had 
escaped. The soldiers, the nuns, the 
monks, had also taken refuge there, and 
passed the two first nights, intermingled, in 
the greatest confusion. This gave rise to 
scandalous scenes and crimes. Finding 
themselves all equally destitute of an asylum, 
they insulted the Supreme Being, who had 
spared their lives. 



M 2 



I72 A TOUR THROUGH 

The riches, consumed by the fljLr.es, 
were immense. The King's palace, full of 
costly articles, was utterly destroyed, scarcely 
one stone being left upon another. All the 
jewels, treasures, and furniture, were en- 
gulfed, with the palace, in the bosom of 
the earth. This loss, alone, was estimated 
at fifteen millions of livres. But the total 
value of all that was destroyed > or irrecover- 
ably lost, in private houses, furniture, 
money, precious stones, jewels, church- 
plate, ornaments, pictures, &c. amounted 
to the prodigious sum of two thousand two- 
hundred and eighty-four millions. 

The Marquis de Pombal, however, 
caused search to be made, and bullion to a 
considerable amount was found, and restored 
to the owners of the houses. This tre- 
mendous event established, still more firmly, 
the authority of the minister. His excellent 
conduct, arnl extraordinary courage, gained 



THE ATLANTIC. I 73 

him the entire confidence of his master, 
who, first, conferred on him the title of 
Count d'Oyeras, and afterwards that of 
Marquis de Pombal. The numbers of his 
enemies increased in the same proportion as 
his influence. Invested, in some measure, 
with the whole sovereign power, he made 
use of it to strike important blows. He 
was seen, at one and the same time, attack- 
ing the abuses in the naval department, in 
commerce, in the army, and among the 
nobility; issuing new ordinances; and se- 
verely chastising those who neglected their 
duty. He devoted his attention to the re- 
building of the capital, procured architects 
from all parts, built houses, erected pa- 
laces, retrieved the finances, and exerted 
himself, with success, to infuse vigour into 
the government. Scarcely had he begtfn to 
enjoy the fruit of his labours, when he had 
to encounter the horrid plot, formed by the 
Portuguese nobility, against the life of the 
M 3 



174 A tour Through 

Sovereign, The ringleaders in this conspi- 
racy were the first personages of the king- 
dom. At its head was the Duke of Aveiro; 
the Marquis de Tavora, his two sons, and 
the Counts d'Atonguia, d'Almeidas, and 
Poriza, were the chief conspirators among 
the grandees. The King's amorous intrigue 
with the Marchioness de Tavora, with 
whom he regularly spent his evenings, was 
one of their principal grievances, or, at 
least, one of their principal pretexts. The 
family of Tavora, resenting this disgrace, 
seemed but to wait for an occasion to re- 
venge it ; but their ambition was a still 
more powerful motive. The Tavoras, as 
well as the other grandees of the kingdom, 
were indignant at the implicit confidence, 
reposed by the King in the Marquis de 
Pombal, and they formed the plan of hurl- 
ing him from the throne, and placing the 
eldest of their family upon it, iaJhis stead, 



THE ATLANTIC. I 7 5 

The conspirators, who exceeded two 
hundred and fifty in number, fixed upon 
the moment when the King was repairing 
to his mistress, foT putting their detestable 
project in execution. They posted them- 
selves, in companies, along the road which 
he was to pass. He was in a chariot, drawn 
by two mules, driven by a postilion, and 
had his valet-de-chambre beside him. The 
conspirators did not fire till the carriage was 
in the midst of them. A shower of mus- 
ket-balls was then discharged, and wounded 
the King in three places. His valet-de- 
chambre had the presence of mind to desire 
him to drop down in the bottom of the 
carriage, and to cover him with his body. 
The Duke of Aveiro himself attempted to 
shoot the postilion, but his carabine missed 
fire. The postilion, with equal courage 
aind fidelity, suddenly turned the mules, 
and drove back in full speed to the palace, 
by a different way from: what he had come. 

M 4 



176 A TOUR THROUGH 

The most dangerous of the King's wounds 
was in the shoulder, from which balls and 
other matters were extracted, Carvalho, 
who was just about to leave the palace, saw 
the King return, and w r as soon informed of 
what had happened. Ever firm, and calm 
in the most critical junctures, the first thing 
he did was to enjoin the postilion to keep 
the affair a profound secret. Notwith- 
standing this precaution, a report, that the 
King had been assassinated, instantly spread 
over the whole city ; and it is said to have 
been propagated by the conspirators them- 
selves. The people, who were attached to 
their sovereign, hastened, in alarm, to the 
palace, whither great numbers of the nobi- 
lity also repaired. The King shewed him- 
self at the balcony ; the people were pacified 
with being told, that it was only the car- 
riage which had been overturned, and that 
the King had received but a slight contusion. 
The Duke of Aveiro offered to arm himself, 



THE ATLANTIC. I -J*] 

in pursuit of the assassins, and bring them 
to the King. Carvalho exhorted him to be 
tranquil. Pretending to give credit to the 
sincerity of his zeal, he imparted false par- 
ticulars, to him in confidence ; and, above 
all things, he recommended discretion. 
The Duke of Aveiro now considered him- 
self out of all danger of suspicion. He was 
much detested at court, possessed great 
wealth, and belonged to the house of Bra- 
ganfa. Deformed both in body and mind, 
cruel, inhuman, restless, a professed enemy 
of Carvalho and the King, he was capable 
of any thing ; and the recesses of his soul 
had not escaped the penetration of the Mar- 
quis de Pombal. 

The King soon recovered, and all seemed 
forgotten. Six months passed in the most 
profound silence respecting this event ; the 
nobility and the people had almost dismissed 
the circumstance from their thoughts ; but 
4 



& TOUR THROUGH 

Carvalho was privately collecting informa- 
tion, to detect the real perpetrators of the 
crime. He obtained the strongest proofs of 
their guilt ; but the more he was convinced 
that Aveiro and Tavora were implicated r 
with the greater distinction and favour he 
treated them. For one he procured the 
permission, which he solicited, to spend 
three months at his country-seat; for the 
other, he obtained a commandery, for 
which he had applied, previous to the 
King's accident. The conspirators them- 
selves were astonished at the conduct of the 
minister j they all made themselves per- 
fectly easy, and conceived that they had, 
now, nothing to fear. The way in which 
Carvalho came to the knowledge of the 
whole plot was as follows : A servant, who 
was in love with a female domestic, of the 
house of Tavora, was in the garden of that 
nobleman, waiting for his mistress, who 
had promised to meet him there, when the 



THE ATLANTIC. 1 79 

conspirators, who met in the same place, 
arrived, and after reasoning on what had 
happened, formed another plot, from which 
they promised themselves better success. 
The servant, who had prudently kept him- 
self concealed during this extraordinary con- 
versation, instantly repaired to Carvalho, 
whom he apprized of all that he had seen 
and heard. The minister, to prevent the 
execution of this new conspiracy, deter- 
mined, without loss of time, to inflict on 
the culprits the punishment w r hich they had 
deserved. 

To accomplish this design, without ex- 
citing any suspicion, he seized the oppor- 
tunity afforded by the marriage of one of 
his daughters with the Count de Zampayo. 
The King signed the marriage-contract, and 
provided the entertainment given on the oc- 
casion. All the gentlemen belonging to the 
court were invited, and came fiom their 



l80 A TOUR THROUGH 

country-houses to be present at it. On the 
day appointed for the celebration of the nup- 
tials, when both the court and the city were 
to be engaged in balls and diversions, the 
Marquis ordered ten battalions of infantry, 
and a great number of cavalry, to enter 
Lisbon. There were two grand balls : one 
at the palace of Belem, the other in a build- 
ing, erected for such amusements by the 
English. Here all the most distinguished 
persons in the, city were assembled, and here 
all the conspirators were apprehended at the 
same hour. They were immediately brought 
to trial, and eight days afterwards, ten of 
the principal were executed in front of the 
palace of Belem, along the Tagus. The 
Duke of Aveiro was quartered ; the others 
were beheaded, or burned. The old Mar- 
chioness de Tavora, a violent and imperious 
woman, died with heroic courage, as well 
as her second son, only ten years of age. 
She herself, after tying a handkerchief over 



THE ATLANTIC. I 8 I 

her eyes, gave the executioner the signal to 
strike the fatal blow. The Duke of Aveiro, 
on the contrary, met death like a coward. 
Their bodies were burned, and their ashes 
thrown into the sea. The two families of 
Aveiro and Tavora were entirely destroyed. 
The palace of the former was demolished ; 
the ground upon which it stood was sprin- 
kled with salt, in order, as it- was said, to 
prevent it from producing any thing. In 
the centre of this spot was afterwards erected 
a pillar, with an inscription, commemo- 
rating the crime, and the punishment of 
that nobleman. The greater part of the no- 
bility were immured in prisons, from which 
they were not released, till the death of Jo- 
seph I.; that is to say, after a confinement 
of nineteen years. Some few escaped. The 
young Marchioness de Tavcra was shut up 
in a convent, where she still remains. The 
Jesuits, as 1 have already observed, being 
suspected of having a hand in this horrid 



iS'Z A TOUR THROUGH 

plot, were all expelled the kingdom, except 
about twenty Germans, who were thrown 
into confinement. Some, it is said, were, 
privately, executed in the prisons ; as, for 
instance, Malos, a Portuguese, and Alex- 
ander, an Irishman. As to Father Mala- 
grida, he was put to death by the sentence 
of the Inquisition, and not for the assassi- 
nation of the King ; for no proofs could be 
discovered sufficiently convincing to com- 
prehend him in the list of the conspirators. 
He w r as burned as a heretic ; and, among 
the charges preferred against him by the 
tribunal, he was accused of the crime of 
having written that, the Virgin Mary spoke 
Latin in the i^cmb of St, Anne, The de- 
struction of this man, who, as may easily 
be supposed, had given greater cause of 
offence than that which was made a pretext 
for his execution, had been predetermined. 
It is asserted, that he was not even asked 
any questions relative to the King's assassi- 



THE ATLANTIC, I 83 

nation, though he had been accused of 
having chiefly contributed to involve the 
Marchioness de Tavora in the conspiracy, 
by heightening her resentment against the 
court, where she was treated with the 
greatest contempt. It was easy for the fa- 
natical Jesuit to avail himself of the twofold 
ascendency, which devotion and wounded 
pride gave him over her mind, in order to 
lead her to the commission of a crime. At 
the moment w r hen she was going to the 
scaffold, her husband, who was on the 
point of sharing the same fate, reproached 
her for having implicated her family in such 
an execrable project. In reply, she merely 
desired him to support his misfortune with 
the same courage as she did, and not to re- 
proach her with it. The eldest son of the 
Duke of Aveiro is still living in a convent, 
in which he was confined, though inno- 
cent. Justice could no more sanction his 



184 A TOUR THROUGH 

death, than policy suffer him to enjoy his 
liberty. 

The city of Lisbon, including the sub- 
urbs, is nearly three leagues in length, and 
one in breadth. It lies in 8° 30 west long, 
and 38 0 45' north lat. and contains upwards 
of one hundred thousand inhabitants. Re- 
specting its origin, opinions w r idely differ. 
According to some, it was built by a grand- 
son of Noah, named Eliza, in the year of 
the world 1935. According to another 
story, not quite so absurd, Ulysses, after 
the destruction of Troy, having passed the 
straits of Gibraltar, erected a town on 
the left bank of the Tagus, opposite to the 
present city, and gave it the name of Ulys- 
sopolis, which the Arabs changed to Lis- 
bon. It afterwards became a Roman co- 
lony, and a municipal city under Julius 
Caesar, who called it Felicitas Julia, to 
express, we are told, the pleasure w 7 hich 



THE ATLANTIC. 1 85 

he enjoyed during his residence there with 
a female of the name of Julia, 

John I. after he was declared king, was 
desirous of testifying his gratitude to the 
city of Lisbon, by the grant of certain pre- 
rogatives. In 1385, he honoured it with 
the title of the capital, and made it the or- 
dinary residence of the sovereign. In this 
manner he rewarded it for the zeal which 
it had shewn to elect him king, when he 
was only regent. He likewise resolved that 
the first relagaon, or court of justice, of 
his kingdom, should meet there, that he 
might be enabled to execute, w r ith the 
greater promptitude, such declarations as 
it might pass for the good of the state and 
of his subjects. This court is composed of 
a president, a chancellor, and ten dczem- 
bargadores, or judges. Almost all causes 
are referred to this tribunal. In the casa de 
supplicar, all matters brought before it, by 



i86 A TOUR THROUGH 

appeal, are, finally, and, peremptorily, de- 
termined. 

Instructors in the arts of drawing, 
dancing, and fencing, are very few in Lis- 
bon. They have some, however, for these 
several attainments, at the college of the 
nobles, whence they go and give lessons in 
the city. The science of music is much 
cultivated in the capital. Concerts are the 
principal amusements of the Portuguese, 
and they have some amateurs who would 
do no discredit to any musical society. They 
also excel in horsemanship, and sit the ani- 
mal with firmness and grace, especially at 
Lisbon. 

The Portuguese, naturally reserved, are 
more so in Lisbon than elsewhere. They 
associate^ mostly together. The embellish- 
ments, the conveniences, the enjoyments 
<|f life, are. almost exclusively, concentred 



THE ATLANTIC. I S7 

in their dwellings. Their taste for the 
country, and for all that it affords, has, 
however, contributed to enliven the suburbs 
of Lisbon. The outskirts are well culti- 
vated. Gardens and country-seats are 
sprinkled about in profusion; and on 
whichever side that city is approached, 
whether by land or sea, every thing com- 
bines to bespeak a most delightful town — on 
entering the city, the illusion vanishes. 

For the commerce of the capital and 
kingdom of Portugal, I must be content 
to refer to the excellent Travels of the 
noble author from whom I have already 
made so copious extracts, not doubting 
that the information they contain on that 
and on every subject connected with the 
country, will be far from unsatisfactory. 

The two succeeding days, our progress, 
from the adverse winds, was little towards 

N 2 



l8S A TOUR THROUGH 

the port we were so anxious to gain ; and 
our only resource, in this trial of patience, 
was a constant attention to the appearance 
of any strange sail, that might become a prize, 
and of which our success had made us the 
more sanguine; but the dawn of Wed- 
nesday, the 22d, opened to a calm that was 
soon succeeded by a favouring breeze, 
which wafted us along at a great rate. The 
following morning, we found ourselves in 
soundings of the British Channel. About 
ten in the forenoon, a strange man of war 
was seen, from the mast-head, on our 
weather bow, which, on an exchange of 
numbers (men of war have a distinguish- 
ing number, expressed by signal, on first 
coming in sight, to denote the name, rate, 
&c), proved to be our gallant Admiral's 
ship the Antelope, thus far on her passage 
from Newfoundland. On our communi- 
cating by Sir Home Popham's ingenious 
and useful code of telegraph signals, that 



THE ATLANTIC. 1 89 

we had, on Sunday morning last, in lat, 
45 0 40', long. io° 50', seen an enemy's 
squadron, &c. and on that evening cap- 
tured a fine French privateer, then a few 
miles astern of us; she having hauled off 
to examine a strange sail, the Admiral 
backed his main-topsail, and desired us 
to pass within hail, and communicate par*- 
ticulars. 

We now stood on, in the intention to 
make the land, and as evening began to 
close in, saw the Scilly Isles, famous for 
their dangers to the sailor, being surrounded, 
fqr a considerable distance, by rocks and 
breakers. Here you receive an impression 
of the superiority of our navigation, and 
the care taken to prevent, as much as pos- 
sible, the terrors of the wreck ; for as 
Scilly is considerably more dangerous, from 
{he many sunken rocks, &c. than any other 
point, in approaching or going up Channel, 
n 3 



I90 A TOUR THROUGH 

so it is wisely marked by a beacon peculiar 
to itself, formed by a revolving flame, 
which gives light every instant, and leaves 
no hesitation to the pilot in respect to a 
knowledge of the dangers he is approaching. 

We now seemed quite happy ; a favour-? 
ing gale carried us past the western circuit 
with astonishing quickness : the next morn- 
ing we saw the Isle of Wight, and, in the 
afternoon, cast our anchor at St. Helenas. 

I know not a more gratifying sensation 
than the return to our beloved country from 
a foreign clime ; and here she presents a 
scene that would vie with any picture the 
world could produce. On the right is seen 
the niajestic spire of Chichester ; and, on 
the left, the beautiful island of Wight, that 
forms so complete a shelter to our navy, 
and places the roadstead of Spithead beyond 
competition. The vast range of ships that 



THE ATLANTIC, 191 

extend far as the eye can reach, impresses 
the beholder with the extent of our com- 
merce; and the large arsenal of Portsmouth, 
with a conviction of our being lords of the 
mighty main, while the science displayed 
in the fortifications of that town, is cal- 
culated to establish a competition with the 
most complete masters of that branch of the 
art of war. 

The next morning was one of the most 
serenely beautiful I ever saw ; and as we 
weighed to work up to Spithead, from 
which a large convoy of ships was standing 
out, with a fair breeze ; every tack brought 
us nearer and nearer to the anchorage, 
whence we had, six months before, taken 
our departure* 

1 cannot imagine a greater treat to a phy, 
siognomist than to contemplate the various 
expression of countenance of a number of 
N 4 



igZ A TOUR THROUGH 

persons of different rank, connexions, and 
interests, but generally governed by the 
same honourable sentiments of attachment 
to their native land, and the beloved ob- 
jects it contains, and which is no where to 
be found so strongly marked as in the fea- 
tures of the officers and crew, just coming" 
to a well-known port, after a long and suc- 
cessful cruize. The kind husband, the 
indulgent father, the affectionate son, #nd 
the anxious lover, are seen in their variety 
of feeling and character, all actuated by a 
different sentiment, but emanating from 
the same noble source — a good and brave 
heart. 

At two o'clock on this day, November 
25th, the Vestal anchored at Spithead. It 
would be a seeming ingratitude not to ex- 
press the comfort and happiness, I venture 
to say, we all experienced during our tour 
through the Atlantic. 



THE ATLANTIC. 193 

Every person who has seen the nature of 
public service, is fully aware of the influ- 
ence and power vested in the commanding 
officer. Captain Graham has the peculiar 
manner of commanding the hearts as well 
as the actions of his people; and, by his 
general indulgence and conciliatory man- 
ners, commands the respect and ready obe- 
dience of his officers: thus it was im- 
possible, with the general correctness, ex- 
perience, and gentlemanly manners, of my 
messmates, that I should not look forward 
to the prospect of a future voyage, with 
a firm expectation of enjoying all the ad- 
vantages I have hitherto done in so eminent 
a degree, and of , the anticipation of results 
advantageous to my own, and glorious to 
my country % interests. 

/ 

THE END. 



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